Category Archives: Boqueron Panama

Info Plaza

Info Plaza

I’ve made plenty of references to the Info Plaza here in Boquerón that I visit on a nearly daily basis when I’m in need of an internet fix. A couple of days ago I brought my camera along so you can see it.

The sign says “Closing The Digital Gap” and they’re doing a pretty good job of it, too.

There are eight modern computers available to anyone who wants to use them and, as I’ve said, the fee is an extremely reasonable 35¢ an hour. A WiFi connection is also available which is what I use.

The girl on the right in the photo is Karina, one of the two who share the duties of running the place. She’s the one who never charges me more than 35¢ no matter how long I’m logged on.

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Mother’s Day In Boquerón

Here in Panama Mother’s Day is a REALLY big deal, not just a marketing gimmick dreamed up by greeting card manufacturers, restaurants and retail outlets to fill their coffers. In Panama Mother’s Day is on the 8th of December and it’s an official holiday with government offices and banks closed down for the day.

The 8th was on a Wednesday this year but the Saturday following, a big celebration was held here in Boquerón at the covered basketball court by the City Hall. It’s a good thing it was undercover since it rained most of the day. Not one of our aguacerro drenchers but a steady light rain. Still, over 1,400 people showed up for the entertainment.

There were bands, youngsters performing traditional folk dances in costume, the girls resplendent in their plain Pollera dresses and hair decorations.

The Polera the adults wear on special occasions are works of art.

On a stage at one end of the court was a treasure trove of blankets, clocks and other goodies that were given to the mothers in attendance.

There was also food, of course. Hundreds and hundreds of Panamanian tamales wrapped in banana leaves. Unfortunately I don’t have any photos and after having been on my feet for nearly three hours my back was killing me and so I wandered down the hill to the house.

I thought the whole thing was great and in the wonderful tradition of what small-town life is really like whether here in Panama or around the world. It’s one of those touches of reality and humanity that are lost in the metropolitan areas. Okay, after writing that I realize there are often neighborhoods in the older cities like Boston, New York and Chicago that have their own traditions and localized fairs and celebrations, but these are primarily based on ethnic and national origins rather than encompassing the entire community as a whole.

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Shopping Options In Boqueron

As I’ve written before, the shopping options here in Boquerón are extremely limited. There are three small tiendas with a very limited inventory made up mainly of cold drinks, some very basic staples and junk food. There are also two larger establishments known generically as “Chinos.”

They have that name since most throughout Panama are owned by Chinese immigrants, some who have been in the Republic for generations having first migrated to work on the French-built railroad and later on the Canal.

All of the supermarkets have produce sections and the one at El Rey in David comes close in size and quality to anything found at most Publix and Winn-Dixie stores in Florida. Their prices are pretty similar, too.

Most people, at least here in the countryside, buy their produce at roadside stands and many have bargains unheard of in the States. For example, a large, wonderfully fragrant, juicy pineapple generally be had for a buck. While none of these stands can rival the splendor of the open-air markets in Antibes an Nice, France, the quality, if not the quantity, stands up to the comparison quite well.

Here in Boqueron there is another alternative and it comes to you and the prices are the envy of state-side residents. Twice a week a small pickup truck rolls down our street with its loudspeaker announcing its arrival and the prices he offers. Of course the selection is limited but how can you beat four pounds of spuds for a buck?

Today I made a score with another truck that came selling fresh seafood. Panama, being bordered to the north and south by the Caribbean and the Pacific Ocean respectively has an abundance of fresh seafood. When I lived in Chalmette, just outside of New Orleans, I used to buy fresh, unsorted, heads still on, shrimp for a buck a pound. Naturally with the heads still on you’re paying for weight you can’t eat. In the supermarkets in Fort Lauderdale I used to think I was getting a good deal when I could pick up a pound of shrimp at less than seven dollars a pound and these were generally heads-on as well.

Today, off of the truck I was able to buy a whole pound of tails-only shrimp for the unheard of price of $2.75! Richard’s going to eat good tonight.

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Further Adventures In Cyberspace

I have another couple of days to go before I’ll be able to use my USB modem again. It’s not that I don’t enjoy my visits to the Info Plaza. I do. Since it’s a half a mile away from the house and UP a hill, I usually wait and take the bus to the plaza and walk home. DOWN is much easier to do.

There are two girls who supervise the Info Plaza. Nancy is a thin, almost anorexic waif and Karina could stand to lose about as much weight as Nancy has to look fit and trim. They are both very pleasant girls and we always chat a bit at each visit. In Spanish of course.

It’s always cheaper for me to connect to the wifi when Karina is running the show than when Nancy is there and the pricing reminds me, a bit, of a truck stop in Missouri where I went to college. Actually there were two truck stops at the south end of town at the edge of the corn fields. The closest was small and rather dark and a quarter mile or so away was a larger, brighter truck stop. They both displayed prominent signs advising that they “reserve the right to refuse service to anyone,” but persons of color knew they had to order their food through a back window.

My friend Dennis and I, after a night of drinking or cramming for exams, though most often following the former rather than the latter, would go to the more distant of the two if we felt like having a breakfast type meal and we would almost always order ham and cheese omelets. We did this for a reason which was to see what we would be charged for them. The menu listed a ham omelet, a cheese omelet but NOT a ham and cheese omelet. Naturally the waitresses would take our orders, the cooks would prepare them but when it came time to tally up the bill they were at a loss. What did a ham and cheese omelet go for? They had no idea. Sometimes they’d charge us simply for a ham omelet or for a cheese omelet and sometimes they’d just make something up. It didn’t matter. We never quarreled about the bill. We simply paid what they asked for and it was never the same twice.

What I pay at each visit to the Info Plaza is sort of like that. I believe the official price is thirty five cents for each hour or part thereof. When Nancy’s manning the helm I pay between seventy cents to a dollar five a visit. On the obverse side, when Karina is running the show it’s a flat thirty five cents even if I should stay all day I think.

In the past week I discovered that someone nearby has a wireless network set up in their home since my computer will flash it receives a signal. I can’t get online when I’m inside the house even though the computer says it’s available. But if I sit in the front door I get a one-bar signal that allows me access to my email and other web sites. The signal is only available for a few hours a day, mainly in the evening but last Sunday it was on all afternoon. It gets shut off after a while probably when the person who has it goes to bed for the night.

I love being online, especially now without access to a television but it’s not easy to do as much as I’d like, but I’m adapting.

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Panama’s National Bird

Officially, the Harpy Eagle, the largest raptor in the Western Hemisphere, is the national bird of the Republic of Panama.

I’ve written previously about some of the birds I’ve become acquainted with here and regular readers have seen my videos of the Rufus-tailed hummingbird that lives in the garden of the Potrerillos Arriba house and the screeching flocks of parrots that are everywhere in the highlands. But anyone who has spent any time outside of Panama City soon becomes aware of the fact that the real national bird of the Republic is not the majestic eagle but the common, every day chicken.

Chickens are everywhere. You can even buy your future suppers at the bus terminal.

I have to say, here, that much has been written about the “chicken” buses of Central and South America but I’ve yet to encounter one here in Panama. Once on the ride up to Potrerillos there was an Indian lady with a small box with some young chicks she probably bought at the terminal but that’s the only time I’ve ever been on a bus with chickens here and it hardly counts. On the other hand, a couple of years ago in the central province town of Santiago I did run across this lad waiting for a ride home.

Taking my morning coffee on the porch of the house on the side of the mountain the crowing of roosters could be heard from every point of the compass. Here on my short street in Boquerón there are at least a half dozen flocks of chickens roaming unmolested throughout the daylight hours and there is seldom a time when a rooster isn’t announcing his presence. On the half-mile walk to the Info Plaza it seems there’s a small flock at every other house.

At the first house on the right leaving my yard the owner is serious about raising gamecocks. He has 30 of them and every day they are released from their cages and staked out on the front lawn to catch some fresh air.

It would be a tossup as to whether baseball or cockfighting is more popular in Panama since I’ve noticed that many homes have a small coop in the back yard with one or two gamecocks.  Along the Interamerican Highway between Boquerón and David I know of three “Jardins” that have “Coliseo Gallistico” pits attached and there are at least two on the road from Potrerillos to David. There’s a good-sized baseball stadium in David complete with lights for night games and both Dolega and Boquerón have their own baseball fields though these are just for day games for both Little League and adults.

My paternal grandfather used to raise and fight gamecocks and in the future I will be submitting future posts about my neighbor and his birds.

My neighbor to the left of my house has a couple of flocks of chickens that roam freely about the area. Several of them are the tailless Aracuana breed lead by this handsome fellow:

It’s noisy around here with the crowing of cocks throughout the daylight hours but surprisingly enough I don’t find it annoying at all.

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Watching The River Run

When I was living in Potrerillos people would sometimes ask me what happened to the huge amount of rain we’d get.  After all, September saw a record SIX FEET of the stuff. My answer was we live near the top of a mountain. It all goes down hill.

Well, now I’m living at the bottom of the hills. Two thousand some odd feet lower, anyway, and right beside a small river. The rainy season is supposed to be drawing to a conclusion but we’re still getting some tremendous rainstorms. When the weather is nice the river beside the house looks like this:

Take a look at the rocks in the river during its tranquil stage and try to keep them in mind. The large rock in the upper right of the frame is about 2/3 the size of a Volkswagen Beetle.

Yesterday we had a real downpour that lasted for several hours and it filled the ditches beside the road leading down towards the house and then into the river:

Now, remember those rocks? Now you see ’em, now you don’t:

That’s a lot of water sluicing through and it cuts under the bank with pretty good force. The greatest force is always on the outside of a river’s bend and that’s what’s aiming at the house’s back yard. I haven’t seen anything caving in but it’s only a matter of time. It’s about 20 yards from the fence to the drop off into the river.  Nature will eventually take its toll.

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Learning Curve

Things I learned this week:

La Concepcion is not the place to go for grocery shopping. It takes two buses each way at a cost of $1.60. A bit cheaper than Potrerillos to David round trip which was $1.80. A shopping trip from Boquerón to David also requires two buses each way and costs the same as going to La Concepcion.

El Rey is the best grocery store for all around shopping. There are four groceries in the area: El Rey, Super Baru, Romero (affiliated with El Rey) and Super 99 (owned by Panama’s President, Ricardo Martinelli). El Rey is the only place that has Jell-O Chocolate Pudding Mix. Romero, on the other hand, is the only place stocking Grandma’s Molasses (an essential ingredient for a couple of bread recipes I bake) and Baru (named after Panama’s highest peak, an extinct volcano) is the only one that has Kikkoman soy sauce. I don’t like Super 99. It has nothing to do with politics. To me it’s a bit like the Winn-Dixie near where I lived in Fort Lauderdale. Every time I shopped there I felt like I needed to take a bath when I got home.
Just because you come up with something that seems like a good idea doesn’t mean you should try it out. But that’s part of what makes it a learning curve, isn’t it?

About three quarters of the way to the bus terminal in David there is a large Romero. From the outside it seems to be about as big as the Rey I was headed for. Shopping there would mean not having to take two extra buses, not that the 60 cents they’d cost makes any difference. Well, this store was better than the other two Romeros I’ve been in but still not on a par with Rey.

The problem came trying to catch the bus back home. There are only two an hour. I barely missed the first one so I had to cool my heels for half an hour. No big deal except the next one that came along was full to the brim as was the one a half hour after that. After 90 minutes I was able to get one of the last three seats on the Boquerón bus.

So it’s back to Plan A which is to do the four bus shuffle. At least if I start my return trip from the terminal it’s a lock on getting a seat. And it’s not a problem if I have to wait a while. Most of the little kioskos sell 30 cent scoops of a decent chocolate ice cream and I can enjoy it while watching the passing parade of Panama: school children in their uniforms, Indian women in their native garb and just the ordinary people of the country. I love the terminal. Anyone coming to visit me, even if they rent a car, will have to spend an hour or so there.

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Solving Problems

The house here in Boqueron, like my Spanish, is a work in progress. Last year the owners did major renovations on it but weren’t able to finish everything in the limited time they were able to spend in Panama before returning to Texas.

The major problem remaining unfinished was storage and shelving. The owner said that he and his wife had lived out of their suitcases while they were here. Since I’ve signed on for six months that’s not an acceptable solution for me. I was told that whatever improvements I made on the house out of my own pocket should just be taken off of the rent.

Being able to hang up my clothes (and I admit that I usually hang my dirty stuff on the floor) was easily remedied. I simply measured the width of the huge walk-in closet upstairs and bought an adjustable shower curtain rod to span the distance and voilá, problem solved.

The biggest problem was the lack of shelving in the kitchen and under the sink. There was nothing there except open space.

I spent quite a bit of time trying to figure out a solution to this problem. It wouldn’t be too hard to build some shelving but the problem would be getting the wood to the house. I’d either have to beg help from someone with a truck or pay one of the pickup trucks that are used as taxis around here which would probably cost more than it was worth. Even before I moved in, and knowing the lack of storage I’d spent time wandering through the Do It Center (a Home Depot kind of store without the lumber) and its competition Novey to see if I could come up with some ideas. Of course there are all kinds of shelving solutions where you screw slotted jobber dos into a wall and then insert arms where you want them and lay shelving upon those. Reasonably priced, but the problem here was that anywhere you needed to drill into something you’d need to have a masonry bit because EVERYTHING is concrete.

Tuesday I was in Novey and they had the solution I’d been looking for. Inexpensive, no drilling needed.

I bought two of them immediately and a couple of other things I needed and yesterday I went back and bought three more. They were $11/each. Two of them are under the counter right now, one is set up next to the stove to hold the pots and pans and another is in the closet for the underwear, socks, etc. I haven’t decided where the fifth one is going to go. Probably under the sink counter, too.

The advantages of this solution is that it didn’t require any construction. No sawing, no drilling, just put the pieces together in a few minutes and it’s done. Plus, the owners don’t have to like it. They’ll most likely deal with the problem in a permanent way. So, when my time  here is up I’ll simply disassemble and stack them up and take them with me. They won’t take up much space wherever I land after this.

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A Quick Peek At Boqueron

I rented the house in Boqueron without the slightest idea of what the town looked like. In a lot of ways it really didn’t matter. What DID matter was that I needed to find a place that would give me a six month lease. It had to be furnished with a functioning kitchen consisting of at least a working refrigerator and a stove with an oven. It had to have easy and close access to transportation and fit within my limited budget.

One place I looked at would actually be in sight of where I’m living now if it wasn’t for a line of trees in the way. It’s right across the street from where I catch the bus to go down to David and Dolega.

I’ve always liked this house with its attractive landscaping and when I was told that it was furnished and available for $175 a month I couldn’t wait to take a look at it. Well, it gives meaning to not judging a book by its cover. The interior left a lot to be desired. What pass for rooms are more like cubicles. The walls, made of painted cement block, extend up from the floor to a height of about seven feet and there are no ceilings. In fact there are no ceilings at all, simply the tin roof topping everything and there’s no telling what it must sound like in the nearly daily deluges we get here. The kitchen, such as it is, consists of a refrigerator that probably saw better days a couple of decades ago and the cooking arrangements are a two-burner contraption similar to what I kept in Fort Lauderdale for hurricane emergencies. To get to the toilet you have to go out the back door to a facility that could only have been an after thought. Not exactly an out house but pretty damned close. The front and back doors are secured with padlocks.  And there is no hot water, either.

Fortunately I was able to beg off giving an answer right away by saying, truthfully, that I had made an appointment to see the house in Boqueron the next day and since I’d given my word I had to go.

Today I decided to go check out the town where I’ll be living. The transportation situation is a bit better from David to Boqueron than it is to Potrerillos Arriba. Here there’s a bus once an hour. The buses run from the terminal in David to Boqueron on the hour and half hour. It costs me 90¢ to take the bus from here to David. It’s 45¢ down to Dolega. From David to Boqueron is a half buck with the Jubilado discount. There are some alternatives if I wouldn’t want to wait for the bus that goes directly into Boqueron. I could take the buses that go to La Concepcion, Puerto Armuelles or La Frontera and get off at the intersection where the road from Boqueron meets the Interamerican Highway. But then I’d have to take a cab to the house which is about two and a half kilometers from the main highway.

I was pleasantly surprised by what I found Boqueron to be. It’s slightly smaller than my favorite, Dolega, with a population of about 1,500. Like Dolega, the place is clean. The residents obviously take pride in their town. You won’t find huge, gringo-style homes here. Rather they are generally medium-sized, well maintained and, once more, would fit right in with most middle-class residential neighborhoods in southeast Florida.

As in Dolega, the streets off of the main drag have a rural feel to them.

Incidentally, about an hour later, waiting at the bus to go back to David, I talked with the girl in the photo. Her tee shirt said something about being an English student. She’s been studying for about a year and does quite well. She says she writes English very well but has a problem with the spoken word since none of her fellow students want to speak it outside of class. She wants to be a teacher and apparently it is now a requirement in Panama for teachers to be able to speak English.

I kind of like the idea of City Hall being called a Palace…

There were two paintings on the face of the building:

God – Country – Work

For the Benefit of the World

In the first crest there’s a reason for the machete. The things are everywhere. Riding on the bus the Indian men often have one as they go to and from work. And they are artists with them, too. Over the weekend two Indians chopped back the vegetation around the house and they accomplished it in about a third of the time, or less, than it would have taken me to do with the weed whacker. A while back there was a youngster on the bus going to some pageant, apparently, dressed in traditional country garb and sporting a toy machete stuck in his sash. But I’m wondering if the book over the machete in the crest is trying to send a subliminal message like: “get an education or you’re going to be using one of these for the rest of your working life.”

The central picture on the second crest is obviously the Canal the country is so rightfully proud of, but what’s with the Hell’s Angels motorcycle patch in the lower right?

Right next to the Town Hall is a covered basketball court. As it was noon time when I was there, several municipal workers were sitting on the bleachers having their lunch.

Down the road aways, and though I didn’t visit it, there is a baseball stadium.

Naturally the center of every town here in Panama has a church. The one in Boqueron is modern and, I think, quite attractive. Unfortunately there was no way to get a shot of the whole church and its bell tower without those damned electric lines in the way.

Of course no town would be complete without a central park and I think the one in Boqueron is pretty nice.

Down a pretty steep hill, which I didn’t try to negotiate today. is the town’s Fair Ground but I’m curious what Club Lazo is about. Anyway, they’re waiting for us.

There are a couple of small “tiendas” in the town as well as the local “Chino’s.” Most of the small markets in Panama are owned by Chinese. Here you can get most of the staples you need, a limited supply of veggies and meats. For major shopping you need to go to David, or, most likely since it’s closer, La Concepcion.

Naturally, since Boqueron is only 300 feet  above sea level it’s going to be a lot hotter than it is up on the side of the mountain. But not to worry, there’s plenty of cold suds at Bar Beny. Wonder if the Jets drink here?

Overall I think Boqueron is equally as attractive as Dolega, but there are warts to every thing of beauty. In this case I found it at the bus stop waiting to go back to David.

I didn’t spend a whole lot of time in Boqueron today. It was clouding up fast and I wanted to get out before it started raining. I managed to avoid it until I got back up on the hill, but I never leave home without my umbrella. I’m looking forward to spending the next six months in this pretty little town.

 

 

 

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A New Place To Live

One month from today the owners of the house I’ve been living in for the past five months return.

My first choice for a move would have been to Dolega, a small town about half way between Potrerillos Arriba and David. Click here to see my previous post about this village. But I couldn’t find any available houses of apartments for rent there despite asking people at the stores, in the park and strolling around.

Daily I checked craigslist both for houses and apartments by themselves as well as the possibility of finding a shared place. One ad caught my attention, the price was right, the location seemed fine (in David itself), but when I inquired about who I might be sharing the house with it turned out that the other occupants were in their 20s and 3os. Wouldn’t have worked. I did check out one place that was offered by someone I met on a visit to the hostel where I stayed in David. The young man, well, young in relation to my dotage, is personable enough and is on the road much of the time so I’d have the place to myself much of the time. But while the location was quite good, a short walk in one direction to the bus terminal and a similar hike in the other direction would take one to the main park in town, the furnishings were, well let’s say, somewhat shoddy and past their prime. In the States Goodwill and the Salvation Army wouldn’t have taken the stuff. I took a pass.

I got one response to an ad I’d placed, myself, on craigslist looking for another house-sitting position.  It was for a place in a community close to David called Los Anastacios. What I’ve seen of it from the bus windows going up and down the hill it looks like a pretty decent place with modern, gringoesque houses. It is rented by an 84 year old gentleman but the owner of the house was looking for someone to act as property manager, care for the pool (hmmmm), mow the lawn, etc. I passed on this one, too.

One of the reasons I passed on those was I’ve come to realize I enjoy my solitude after having been in a five year live-in relationship with a girl followed by another six years of having a roommate. Actually the roommate situation was better than the relationship since in the entire six years my roommate and I never once got into an argument. That certainly doesn’t come close to the live-in arrangement.

I checked out the bulletin boards at the supermarkets that offered a variety of places for rent. Many were asking more than my budget would allow and the ones that I could afford weren’t in places I’d want to be.

I’d put up notices on various Yahoo Groups dealing with Panama and got several responses. Again, most of these were either too expensive or in locations I didn’t like. One of the responses was from a gringo lady who lives not too far away. I wrote to my friend Joyce who knows a lot of people in this area and she told me the lady was a bat-shit crazy, right-wing teabag sort, so that was out of the question. Since Joyce and I are on similar wave lengths I value her opinion.

Then I got this response: “A friend of mine has a small house in Boqueron for rent.  Semi furnished with air condition and nice swimming hole.  He is asking 200.”

Okay, the price works. Not as good as FREE! But certainly well within budget. Interestingly, when I was first looking for a place to live, just after receiving my Pensionado Visa, I was corresponding with someone who had a place to rent in Boqueron. Unfortunately I couldn’t get down here in time and it was rented to someone else. It also appeared, from Google Earth, to be farther away from David than I wanted to be, as well. But I didn’t know better at the time.

I got back to the person who sent me the message and then started to correspond with the owner of the house who lives in Texas. The house was renovated within the last year and the owner was willing to lease it out for six months rather than a whole year. This is perfect since the owners of this house on the hill have asked me if I would do it all over again next year. Since I really like the place there’s nothing I’d rather do.

So, on Monday I took the bus to David and then another out to Boqueron where I saw this:

I would be renting the downstairs. Admittedly it’s going to be a lot different than living here:

But then, again, I went from living on this for three and a half years,

To living on this for the next five years…

And I can’t honestly say that the larger boat was any more fun than the smaller.

Boqueron is a Panamanian community. I will be the only gringo in the neighborhood which is decidedly middle-class Panamanian. Decent houses and the owner of the house says he loves his neighbors. Transportation is much better to Boqueron than it is to Potrerillos which will be a big plus. But Boqueron is closer to La Concepcion than it is to David, so that’s where I’ll be going to do most of my shopping for the next six months. You might remember that I wasn’t at all impressed with the place when I visited it last month. https://oldsalt1942.wordpress.com/2010/09/08/a-quick-look-at-la-concepcion/ And while the saying is true that you never get a second chance to make a first impression I’ve found, over the years, that my first impression of people and places haven’t been all that astute.I’m hoping that’s what will happen with La Concepcion.

We’ll see how it goes and I’ll be putting my impressions in photos and videos right here.

Oh, yes, one thing I’m looking forward to is the swimming hole in the river that passes by just a few steps from my new back door.

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