Tag Archives: adventure

Bamboo For Shanty Boat Building

Continuing on the search for building materials for a shanty boat build here in Boquerón, Panama. Five years or so ago I talked to Courtney Parks, owner of the Bocas Marina and a good friend of my friend the late, great Frank Hilson (everyone who knew Frank misses him). Back then Courtney was working on getting a boat yard up and running in Almirante on the mainland. Yard, travel lift, the whole nine yards and rare as hen’s teeth down here. Well, going through a ton of sites this last week it seems he’s actually done it and the yard opened a couple of years ago.

http://cruisingoutpost.com/2012/11/bocas-del-toro-boatyard-construction-underway/#idc-container

Courtney said then, that the plywood they sell here in Panama is garbage, and he usually had what he needed shipped down from the States. So, talk about expensive! Figure in the cost of shipping and then the import duties, sheeesh!

Today I went to one of the largest hardware outlets around, Franklin Jurado, over in Bugaba. They had a limited stock of plywood and while it was marked “Marinero,” I doubt that it really IS marine-grade ply. A 3/4″ sheet is listed at $26.05 and 1/2″ at $22.53. Cochez, the other big supplier in the area prices their stuff within a few cents of Jurado’s prices.

So, building a small, 18′ scow hull like the Atkins “Retreat” which I’ve lways rather liked, http://shantyboatliving.com/2012/shantyboat-living-book-design-options-retreat/ you can figure that the plywood for the scow hull is going to run around $450, not counting framing (2X4X8, untreated pine runs $4.84 each) plus fastenings, glass and resin for sheathing I’d make a very rough guess at about $1,250 for the hull. And remember, of really lousy plywood, too.

So this brings me back to wondering what using bamboo would cost, and what would it look like? Well, they seem to use it quite well in Thailand where these pictures were taken:

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Now I have to track down a source for bamboo for pricing. Besides, I’m thinking of building the cabin with split bamboo because of its light weight.

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Bug Bit Again

In spite of the fact that I’ve worked on some exceptionally fine yachts in my day,

Lady Ann-Hatteras 58

Jolie Aire-Golfe Juan

And had my own small sailboat that I single-handed for a nine-month trip from Fort Lauderdale to Mexico, Belize and the Rio Dulce in Guatemala back in ’92 after sailing the boat in the picture above from France to Fort Lauderdale.

Nancy Dawson

I am secretly a HUGE fan of unconventional craft. Boats on the cheap, so to speak.

Back in the early 70s I dreamed of building a pontoon platform and loading one of those pickup truck RV inserts onto it and power it with an outboard. I never did it, but it’s STILL an excellent idea.

You know, sort of like this:

like this

I mean everything you’d need is right there in the insert…galley, living space, sanitary facilities (heads we call them in pirate talk). All together you’d have a relatively inexpensive shanty boat. And the pleasure of being on the water isn’t related to how much the boat costs, either. And it’s true that boats are used in INVERSE proportion to their size. The smaller the boat the more it’s used.

In 1980, after attending my 20th high school reunion (Okay, it was actually our FIRST class reunion. It just took us 20 years to get it together to have it.) I went to Maine to visit some dear friends. The first night there I was browsing through some National Geographic Magazines that were on the nightstand in my bedroom when I came across an article about a couple, Gwen Carpenter Roland and Calvin Voisin, who recycled an old Louisiana shotgun style house, mounted it on a steel barge and had it towed deep into the Atchafalaya swamp where they eventually lived on it for the next eight years.

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http://www.amazon.com/Atchafalaya-Houseboat-Years-Louisiana-Swamp-ebook/dp/B003IT5SKC/ref=sr_1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1403133956&sr=1-1&keywords=atchafalaya+houseboat

I thought it was one of the coolest ideas I’d ever come across. Without knowing it at the time, I would eventually come to know the Atchafalaya Basin extremely well running a crew boat all through the area taking men and supplies to the drilling rigs located there, but I never came across their house.

I think I stole that copy of the Geographic and took it back to New Orleans where I was living at the time. (Coincidentally, I at the class reunion I won the prize for traveling the farthest to get there, but that was only because Sheila Bonnell didn’t make it from Japan where she was working as an architect.) I envied that couple and the realization of their dream. I knew I’d never have enough money to own a yacht of my own, and actually I found it much better to play around on somebody else’s yacht and get paid for doing it than owning one of my own. But the story made me believe that owning and living on a shanty boat was actually doable. Though the cost of a deck barge like theirs was prohibitive for me, not to mention how much it would cost to hire a tug boat to tow it somewhere was totally out of the question.

And it was. In 1984 I found a half build shanty boat tied up to a tree in the Tchefuncte River on the north shore of Lake Pontchartrain. It was essentially a shack on two pontoons made from oil well casings, and it had a 25 hp Johnson outboard motor for power. I bought it for $1,500, and with my friend Woody Northington, a professional seaman like myself, brought the boat across the lake and down to the Mississippi Gulf Outlet Marina on Bayou Bienvenue (Welcome Bayou) in Chalmette, a suburb just outside of New Orleans.

Houseboat trimmed

I lived on the boat for nearly three years and loved it as much as any yacht I ever worked on (and that included the 175′ Gallant Lady). Altogether I had less than $2,000 invested in her, and when I had to leave Louisiana after losing five jobs in three years and getting laid off for the last time ON my birthday I sold her for $2500 and left.

When I decided to retire to Panama my original idea was to build a shanty boat and spend my remaining days being a “character” over in the Bocas del Toro archipelago. Well, so far that hasn’t happened. Hasn’t even come close to happening. But like one of those songs that get stuck in your head that you just can’t shake all day long, the lure of a shanty boat has returned to haunt me.

I have been very content with my life here in Panama, living way up in the mountains in Potrerillos Arriba and down here “on the flat” in Boquerón. But this little house I love and have called home for three years is for sale and I’m on a month-to-month basis. So far it doesn’t seem that I’m in any danger of being removed. People aren’t beating down the door to look the place over and possibly buy it, but it could happen at any time. Then what would I do? The houseboat worm is burrowing around in my brain.

(You have absolutely no idea how much I’m craving a cigar right now after having stopped smoking nearly 7 months ago.)

I began to think about a modified version of the Louisiana boat. When I ride the bus into David we pass by a place called Riegos Chiriquí (Chiriquí Irrigation). Out in their lot surrounding the office building are stacks of various sized PVC piping. Some of it easily as big in diameter (24″) as the pontoons of my old boat. I started Googling building shanty boats with PVC piping and found some really cool stuff that the Chinese (wouldn’t you know) are doing.

They are using PVC piping to replace what had once been traditional bamboo construction. And I’m not talking about small stuff, either. They’re making freight-carrying boats in the 30′ to 40’+ range.

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Pretty cool, huh? Well, it turns out that while it is cool it’s too damned expensive to do here in Panama. I dropped in at Riegos a couple of days ago and found out that the 24″ pipe which maxes out at 20 feet (the Louisiana boat was 35′) costs over $1,800 each. The smaller pipe like in the pictures above, also max of 20′ cost over $400 each. Prohibitive for my budget.

We’ve all seen pictures of the reed boats of Lake Titicaca…

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Why couldn’t one use bamboo bundled together to make pontoons for the base of a shanty boat? Bamboo grows wild around here. I’ve seen forests of it in my travels up in the mountains. While at Riegos I asked how much 4″PVC cost, figuring that was about the size of most of the bamboo I’ve seen here. A 20′ length of the  stuff is $23.07, and I haven’t done any calculations on the flotation capabilities of the stuff to know how much would be needed. But at a buck fifteen a foot it, too, is prohibitive.

But what all this has done has been to keep me wandering through various sites and dreaming the dream once again.

 

 

 

 

 

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Huge WHEW!

When you become a legal resident of Panama you receive what is known as a “carnet.” It is an official state-issued identification card complete with an unrecognizable photo of yourself.  Actually there are two kinds of state-issued i.d.s. One is called a “cedula.” That’s what citizens have. It resembles a driver’s license in that it is a solid piece of plastic whereas the “carnet” is a cheesy card sadly laminated in cheap plastic. A cedula is permanent while the carnet is tied to your passport number. That means when you get a new passport you have to change your carnet so the numbers match. It recently became possible for extranjeros (expatsto obtain a cedula and avoid having to change things when you get a new passport, but since it will be seven more years until I have to worry about that I 1) don’t know if I’ll even be around in seven more years and 2) I don’t want to spend the several hundred dollars and the jumping through hoops I’d have to go through to get my carnet changed into a cedula.

There are several things that having either a cedula or a carnet does for expats. If you fly into Tocumen airport, PTY in airlinese, with your card and your passport you can enter the country in the much shorter “residents” line instead of the “tourist” line. About an hour east of David there is an Immigration check point and if you’re driving or taking a bus you have to show your i.d. there. Citizens show their cedulas, expats show their carnets. Everybody else has to produce a passport.

You also have to show your carnet do get the numerous generous discounts that are offered to old farts like me. Discount for things like bus and airline tickets, hotels are supposed to give you a discount, and of course restaurants are required to do that too. The most important, and the time I use it most, is for discounts on medicines.

Yesterday, when I went to do my grocery shopping, I pulled out my billfold to present the cashier my “Puntos d’Oro” card. That’s “Gold Points,” sort of like computerized green stamps, and when you accumulate enough “puntos” you can redeem them for “valuable prizes” as they say. As I was digging for my blue “Puntos” card I instantly noticed that my carnet was missing. Shit! GeeZUSS!! NOOOOOOOOOOOOOO!!!

I had no idea what could have happened to it. I tried to remember when I had it out of my wallet the last time. The only thing I could remember was early last month I got on the bus to Rio Serreno on one of those “let’s see where this ends up” bus rides I take from time to time. It was a two hour ride way up into the mountains to a dirtbag little border crossing town on the Costa Rican border. I had to take it out to show the driver so I could get my “jubilado” discount. But I was sure I’d put it back in its place.

I searched all over the house even though I would have absolutely no reason to take it out of its resting place. All I could think of was what a hassle it was going to be having to go to Immigration to straighten things out. I don’t know how computerized they are yet, but since you can only obtain a Panamanian driver’s license if you’re a legal resident I could show the people at the David office that I was, in fact, legal. Of course there was also the dreaded thought that I might have to travel all the way to Panama City to resolve the situation.

Then, as so often happens, just as I was drifting off to sleep, I remembered that a little more than a week earlier I had been to Arrocha to get my blood pressure meds. Surely I must have taken it out then to show the cashier. Hadn’t I? Could I possibly have left it there? There was always the hope, and hope springs eternal.

So, this morning I got up, scrapped the stubble off my face on the chance that I might have to visit Immigration and get a photo taken and took the two requisite buses to the Paza Terronal where Arrocha is located. For a change there wasn’t a line at the pharmacy counter. I told the cashier that I had lost my carnet and explained that I thought I might have left it there. All in Spanish, of course. The chief pharmacist lady, hearing me talking to the cashier, glanced at me and proceeded to the back of the stacks of drugs. There, attached to a shelf by a clothes pin, hung my carnet. HUGE WHEW!!! Immigration showdown averted. I bought my next month’s supply of Zestril and asked the cashier if she wanted to see my carnet. With a big grin she said, and I translate, here, “No. That won’t be necessary today.”

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The Joy of Bilingualism

When one moves to another country where the language isn’t your own native tongue I really believe it is incumbent on you to learn the new one. Of course there are lots of people who expatriate themselves and seek out others of their own kind so that they can go on about their lives in their mother tongue. In the States, Hialeah, Florida, has the second highest percentage of Cuban and Cuban American residents of any city in the country, and I’d bet it would be safe to say that a large percentage of them don’t speak English, either.

Here in Chiriquí Province, up in the highlands around the town of Boquete, there is a similar phenomena taking place. Several thousand Anglophones have chosen the area as a place to retire , and many of them, for many different reasons don’t make much of an effort to learn Spanish. The excuses are numerous: “I’m too old to learn a new language,” “It’s too hard,” etc., etc.

There are several Spanish instruction schools in the area and some people are quite dedicated to learning the language of their adopted country. Like the couple I met recently at a Tex-Mex restaurant. http://hollycarter184.wordpress.com/

I haven’t attended any of the schools for various reasons, one being there isn’t one in easy proximity to where I live. The closest would be about a four hour round trip bus ride which I’m not willing to subject myself to. So I’ve studied on my own with a couple of good books and I never leave the house without my plastic-covered pocket Spanish/English dictionary.

I know I’m a long, long way from being fluent in Spanish. I probably never will be fluent and that really doesn’t bother me. All I’m aiming for is to be proficient in the language, and I think I’m doing pretty well. I talk with all my neighbors, none of whom speak English, and when I go shopping or have to deal with people at the utility companies or other places I do it in Spanish and the people all tell me I speak quite well. Flatterers.

But, I bumble ahead making horrible grammatical errors, confusing verb tenses and committing other linguistic offenses. I’ve also had some really great conversations with locals where we’ve passed my dictionary back and forth when I’m stuck for a word or don’t understand one they’re trying to relate to me.

I think one of the biggest mistakes newly-arrived expats make is buying a car. Cars insulate you from the rest of the world. You leave the sanctuary of your home and encapsulate yourself in your car to get from one place to another and never have to interact with those around you. Me? I don’t have a car and take public transportation everywhere. Much of the time I tune out the world by plugging into my iPod and listen to a book from Audible.com. But I also spend quite a bit of time talking to my fellow passengers. Many times I’ve had young people approach me and ask me if they can practice their English. I like that though I have to say I usually feel strange talking to Panamanians in English, but if they ask I help.

The other day I needed to go to a specialty store at the Plaza Terronal  in David. The Plaza is very modern and not unlike what you’d find in the States. There’s an El Rey supermarket, easily equivalent to stateside markets. There are department stores there. Conway is the Panamanian outlet for Target. There are several appliance stores, a Do It Center which is like Home Depot and there is even a Subway sandwich shop where I get what I call my “gringo fix.”

To get to Terronal I have to take two buses. The first from my home to the bus terminal (60 cents with the “old fart’s discount) and then I get on the bus bound for Dolega. One of those leave the terminal every 10 minutes. It’s a 35 cent ride to the Plaza and takes about 10 or 15 minutes. No discount.

I took a seat on the left side of the bus just opposite the door. I was soon joined by a thin man, about my age, with a cane and a couple of plastic bags. We nodded “hello” to each other but I was plugged into a good book. The ear plugs didn’t dissuade him. He asked if I was listening to the radio.

I detached myself from the audio book and reentered the world to explain that I was listening to someone reading a book to me and how hard it was trying to find English language books here in Spanish-speaking Panama.

“Ahh,” he said, nodding.

“Where are you from?” he asked in Spanish.

I gave him my usual, disarming, “Soy gringo,” (I’m a gringo) reply.

A broad smile broke across his heavily lined, cinnamon-colored, bearded face. “Norte Americano,” he said.

“No, gringo,” I replied. “No tengo una problema con la palabra ‘gringo.’ Canadians are norte americanos, too,” I said.

He nodded. “And not everyone knows that Mexico is part of North America,” He said. “They think it’s part of Central America, but it’s not.”

He asked me where I was from in the States and then he said he was from Colombia. Medellin.

“It’s dangerous there,” I said.

“Very,” he replied.

“You have some cocaine in that bag?” I asked.

Again a broad smile creased his weathered face.

“No. I don’t like cocaine, but I do like ‘yerba.’” (Grass)

I smiled this time. “I’ve smoked a lot of your country in my time,” I said.

We exchanged smiles.

He said he had family living in the States and that two of his sons worked as contractors in Iraq and Afghanistan.

“Now that’s dangerous,” I said.

“Worse than Medellin,” he said. “I fear for them.”

We came to the stop for the Plaza and I told him, “Pase un buen día, señor.” (Have a nice day.)

“Iqualmente,” (you, too) he replied.

As I was stepping off the bus, I heard him say, in heavily accented English, “God bless you.” And then the doors closed and the bus departed.

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Finalized

On Wednesday I finished the process of registering my motorcycle. It was the WORST part of the whole process.

It’s a good thing I didn’t try and get my “placa” (license plate) Tuesday after the “revisado.” While waiting for my turn to have that done the sky started to seriously cloud up so I thought it would be best to head for home before it started to rain. After about an hour at the house when I went to put the bike away I discovered that the front tire was completely flat! I don’t know what I would have done had that happened in Bugaba. I’ve had a very slow leak in the tire for quite a while and have had to pump it up every couple of weeks as I did before I went over for the revisado. I guess what I have to do now is pump it up and time how long it takes to deflate throughout the day to see if I’ll be able to make it into David to get a new tube put in.

Anyway, I took the bus over to Bugaba Wednesday morning and hiked the couple of blocks from the bus stop to the “Palacio Municipal.” The Town Hall, but I just love it that they call it a “palace.”

There were two windows marked “entrega placa 1 & 2). Two was vacant so I took my papers there. The lady looked at them and said I needed to go pay the cashier first. So I got in that line. I figured it wouldn’t be too bad as I was four places from the window. Well, it took over an hour for my turn to get up!

The guy at the window had multiple transactions and the cashier had to leave her post several times to consult with someone back in the office section, so it took a long time to complete his business. The next two in line didn’t go much faster even though they only had single issues to deal with, so I got in a conversation with the gentleman behind me. He told me he’d spent some time in the States visiting family in Florida, Tennessee and Ohio and that he owned pasture land here in Boquerón with about 60 head of cattle. Of course the whole conversation was entirely in Spanish.

When I finally got to the window I discovered what was making everything so slow. First of all the girl only typed with a single finger on each hand. She’d enter a few letters or digits onto the computer and then it was back space, back space, back space. Horrible. I’ve seen kids on the buses texting away with two fingers on their smart phones at lightning speed. Well, it took the girl at the counter nearly 15 minutes to fill out my bill so I could continue.

I had to wait, again, to get processed because the multiple transaction guy was at the window. But this lady knew what she was doing so it wasn’t an awfully long wait. When I got to dealing with her she said, “This isn’t going to be a really good year for you.” I asked her why. “The color of the placa is really going to clash with you motorcycle,” she said with a laugh. Well, my bike is orange and this year’s license plate and the decal you have to attach to the bike somewhere is an awful puke green. At home I found it really isn’t that bad a color combination.

Thankfully I have a year to recover from this fiasco and psych myself up to do it all over again next July.

 

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A Busy Week In Boquerón

I’ve got a ton of stuff to get done this week. One thing is to fill out a “Proof of Life” form for the SS Administration so they don’t cut off my deposits. Those of us living as expats have to provide them with our real life addresses. That should be fun. While they permit us to use a “General Delivery” Post Office, you still have to provide a street address. As I’ve said before, since there is NO home mail delivery there are really no addresses here as we know them in the States. To the water department I live at “Cerca Del Centro De Salud,” which means “Near the Health Clinic.” On the electric bill I received stuck in the gate this morning (it’s for $14.59 if anyone cares) lists me as: ” Al Fondo Casa Dos Pisos, Entrade Caseta,” which is “The two-story house at the end of the road with the entrance at the bus shelter.” Let’s see how Social Security deals with THAT!

I down loaded the form from the internet, but since I don’t have a printer I saved it to a thumb drive. Now I’ll have to go up to the Info Plaza and have them print it out for me. It’s four pages of gobbledy gook.

The next piece of business is the annual registration of my motorcycle. When I bought it a year ago the company that sold it to me did all the paperwork. Now it’s up to me to renew everything.

Yesterday I went into David and bought the mandatory insurance. Not a big deal. The office is a block off the route my bus takes to the terminal so that was a cinch. Of course at the office nobody that I had to deal with speaks English. But why should they? It’s Panama. The language here is Spanish. So, I did everything in Spanish. The whole process took about a half hour and that included the 20 minutes I had to wait for the policy to be printed. Cost for a year’s worth of motorcycle insurance? Sixty eight dollars and a few pennies.

Registration is a three-step process. The second step is known as the “Revisado.” It’s supposed to be an “inspection” of the vehicle, but like with everything else that’s been associated with the motorcycle (see last month’s stories about going to driving school and the testing for a motorcycle endorsement for my license) the Revisado is another joke and another way of extorting money from the population. There is NO inspection as we’d know it. What they do is take a computerized photo of the front, back  and both sides of what ever you have and then give you a form. That’s IT! But naturally you can’t go on to the next step without having completed the first two.

When I got up this morning a little after 7:00 it was rather dark and gloomy. Certainly looked like it was going to rain which is no big surprise considering we are now into what is known as the “rainy season.” Two hours later, though, the clouds were gone and the sun was shining brightly. I know of two places in David where you can get a Revisado, but it’s 20+ miles one way on the Inter American Hwy and then you have to contend with city traffic which is horrendous here.

I asked my neighbor, Negro, the guy with the 40 fighting cocks, if there was a closer place to get it done. He said there was over in Bugaba. That’s the town where I buy my seemed a bit intimidating. It is, after all populated by buses, semis and trucks hauling cattle. There is a way of sneaking down back roads and avoiding part of the highway, but I needed to buy gas at the station down at El Cruce where the Boquerón road intersects with the Inter American. Well, since I’m down there it seemed foolish to drive a couple of miles back the way I’d come from just to avoid a couple of miles on the big, bad road. So I took it. It was a piece of cake. Nothing to it. Fell in behind a car going along at a sedate speed and followed it all the way to where I had to make the turn into Bugaba. Not only that, I knew how to get where I needed to go on a secondary street to avoid the traffic.

I had to wait over an hour and a half for my turn to come so I spent the time talking to a couple of Panamanians who were getting their “inspections,” too. When my turn came along it was all over in under 5 minutes. Went in, paid the fee and left. I could have gone to the Palacio Municipal and gotten the new “Placa” (license plate) but it was clouding up again and I could hear some distant thunder. Wouldn’t be cool to have to ride back to Boquerón in the rain so I came home. Of course not a drop has fallen anywhere near me all day.

Tomorrow I’ll catch the bus to Boquerón and finish the job. It will be cheaper, too. With regular unleaded going for $1.15 a LITRE I can’t ride to Bugaba and back on the motorcycle for what the bus will cost me.

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It’s A Small World

I thought I’d try something different:

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First Legal Ride

I bought my motorcycle to explore the back roads around where I live in Chiriqui Province, Panama. When I bought it I didn’t know that the driver’s license I had didn’t allow me to ride a motorcycle. Anyone who’s followed this blog knows what I went through (in SPANISH) in order to get legal. I received the endorsement on Thursday. Friday it looked as though it was going to start raining at any moment. It didn’t rain at all as it turned out. The weekends are busy times on the road because people that work during the week are out getting things done they can’t do Monday through Friday, and since I am, at BEST, a novice rider, I figured it would be better to wait for a time there would be less traffic on the roads.

Why do I classify myself as a novice rider? Well, when I was around 40 years old I had an old beater of a car that died. I didn’t have enough money to buy another car, but I saw an ad for a Honda 125 motorcycle that was for sale real cheap and I COULD afford to buy it. I rode it for most of a year to and from work on the back roads of New Orleans. But I never got an endorsement there and I never took any lessons. It’s been 30 years since I’ve ridden a motorcycle and though I passed the Panamanian test for a motorcycle endorsement looking at YouTube videos of what people in several different states in the States have to do to pass I can honestly say I’d never qualify.

Be that as it may, with the weekend over I was determined to go for a ride. The sky’s were heavily overcast, but nothing like Friday, so I got my gear on and went out on a 27 kilometer ride from my house to a place up in the hills above Boquerón to a nothing little place called Bocalatún. I have no idea what that means in English if it means anything.

Bocalatun

I took it slow and easy stopping a couple of times to take pictures.

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With all the mountains around here, when it rains Chiriqui becomes an immense watershed and there are small rivers all over the place and, of course, bridges.

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This is one of only a half dozen vehicles I encountered in the hour I was riding.

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Now this was a complete mystery. Just before the road turned from pavement to dirt up around 1,700 feet above sea level I came across this:

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Left over from Noah’s Flood?

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Appalachian Trail Update

On the 5th of this month I did a post about my brother, Jeff, starting off on fulfilling his childhood dream of through-hiking the Appalachian Trail following the fine weather from south in Georgia to Mt. Kathadin, Maine. Right now he’s in North Carolina and sent me the following:

“Thursday I hiked 12.7 miles to Fontana Dam to stay at the Fontana Dam shelter. It’s called the “Fontana Hilton” because it’s one of the largest and cleanest shelters on the Trail which holds about 28 hikers and is maintained by the TVA. Here are some picture of where I stayed for the night.”

On the way to Fontana Dam

I’m assuming this is the lake formed by the dam. (Almost added an end at the end of that word.) It’s hard to tell since he’s sending these via his phone and the photos and text come separately so sometimes there’s a bit of a guessing game one has to do to make sense of it. Sometimes it’s obvious.

Fontana Dam lake

Unlike most of the shelter areas, which are packed dirt and muddy after a rain, the area has packed gravel so mud isn’t tracked into the shelter. Down past the shelter is a picnic area with a fire ring where we set up a camp fire last night and roasted hot dogs for dinner. I’d been thinking about getting a hot dog in town for the last 2 days hiking to Fontana but I managed to get 3 last night for free!!! Yesterday, I spent a “zero day” to rest my left knee which has been causing me some problems and also took a shuttle from the shelter into town to pick up a 5 day food drop at the post office. At the post office I met a kid who had just did a southbound section hike of the Park and encountered 4 bears in the last 12 miles hiking out of the Park.

“The hike into the park from here involves a 2,700′ elevation gain in 11 miles. The weather report calls for rain for the next wee which means no scenic views of some of the best parts of the Trail.

“I called a shuttle service in Cherokee, NC for a shuttle around the Smokies to Davenport Gap. The price quoted was $109. There’s another guy here at the shelter with a bad ankle who’s been taking some zero days trying to heal. His trail buddies have already gone ahead into the park and he’s anxious to catch up with them. I’ve been trying to talk him into sharing the shuttle with me so he can move ahead and meet his buddies in Hot Springs, but he can’t make up his mind.

Well. I’ll be calling the shuttle service in the early afternoon to confirm the ride. Get back to you later.

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Fontana ShelterFontana shelter exteriorFontana Shelter inside

 

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The hike north into the Park from here involves a 2700' elevation gain in 11 miles. The weather report says rain for the next week which means no views in one of the best sections of the Trail.

 

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Done!

Okay, folks…it’s OVER! I got up early this morning and made it down to the driver’s license bureau and arrived at a quarter to eight: 15 minutes early. One lesson the United States, and I suppose a lot of other countries around the world, could learn from Panama is how to treat their senior citizens. After the doors were opened, and a guard ran a wand over everyone and checked their handbags and backpacks the dozen or so people ahead of me started to jockey for position in the line. Another gentleman, who turned out to be a retired Methodist minister who had lived for 20 years in Omaha, Nebraska, and I were singled out as “Jubilados” and given head-of-the-line privileges. Actually in Panama it’s the LAW that Jubilados go to the head of the line at all government offices (except at Immigration from my experience) and businesses such as the electric, and water companies and banks.

I had all my paperwork in order. My driving school diploma, photo copy of my passport (though I had to show the very attractive young lady who was processing me the real thing) and the letter I’d gotten from my HMO doctor as required by law for those of us 70 years old and up saying that I was in decent enough physical condition to be let loose upon the thoroughfares of the Republic with a motor vehicle.

With my paperwork logged into the system I was passed down the line to a cubicle where my mug shot was taken and I had to use one of those foolish electronic pens to sign my name. I was later called back to have my photo retaken. I assume that’s because the first one made me actually look like a human being and was far too good to be placed on an official document.

Next I went to another cubicle where I was given an eye exam which I apparently passed with flying colors. Then I went to an actual room that had three computer screens. First I took the hearing test which consisted of identifying which ear you heard a tone of varying intensities broadcast. Then, at the same computer, came one of the two biggies of the day…the “written” test. Another attractive young lady (I think that’s one of the requirements for them to be hired) patiently explained, in Spanish, that the test was composed of 10 questions. That’s right, only TEN QUESTIONS. And they’re in SPANISH, too. You are allowed one minute in which to read the question and mark the correct multiple-guess answer. I assume you’re automatically marked as incorrect if you don’t do it fast enough. It took me about four minutes to go through the test. I don’t know how many I actually got correct but I know it was enough to pass me on to the inspector who was going to do the “practical” part, or the “road test.”

The driving school had one of their employees bring the motor scooter to the site for my test. There was also another student taking his test this morning, too. I had to wait in line for four people testing for driving a car. They are required to park between a set of cones face in, back in and then parallel park. Three of them had a horrible time with the parallel parking test, but they all passed. Then it was my turn. You can see, in the “Wait That’s It!” link below the route I had to take. The only difference between that guy’s test and mine was that I was told to weave through three cones. As I approached the cones the inspector had his back to me talking to the next applicant in a car. He turned toward me just as I was finishing the weave, gave me a “thumbs up” and I was done.

I went back inside the office where I received another surprise when I went to pay. Because I’m over 70 I got a 50% discount on the fee and only had to pay $20! A few minutes after making my payment I was called up to a small window where I received this:

License

Down there, next to my picture is the code for vehicles I’m permitted to drive. “A” is for bicycle (don’t ask, I don’t know and didn’t ask myself why that’s there.) “C” is for automobiles and was on my original license. The “B” means I can now drive a motorcycle.

Another thing the States could take a lesson from the Panamanians is how to run a driver’s license office. From start to finish this morning it took me just under two hours to complete everything. One time at the DMV in Plantation, Florida, it took me TWO DAYS to get my license renewed!!!

So, it’s over and done with. I took the Panama challenge of having to do the whole thing in Spanish and I PASSED!

Below are links to the stories I’ve posted leading up to today’s adventure for anyone interested in the timeline.

https://onemoregoodadventure.com/2013/03/04/accepting-a-huge-challenge/

https://onemoregoodadventure.com/2013/03/12/wait-thats-it/

https://onemoregoodadventure.com/2013/03/19/back-to-school/

https://onemoregoodadventure.com/2013/03/25/escuela-de-manejar-day-1/

https://onemoregoodadventure.com/2013/03/26/driving-school-day-2/

https://onemoregoodadventure.com/2013/03/27/driving-school-day-3/

https://onemoregoodadventure.com/2013/05/07/still-waiting/

https://onemoregoodadventure.com/2013/05/14/another-step-closer/

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