Time Slips Away

Last weekend they held the 35th Fort Lauderdale to Key West Race. Thirty five years ago I was part of the crew on Rainbow, a 65-foot long Cheoy Lee ketch, taking part in the Inaugural race.

Rainbow is the biggest boat in the picture.

To this day it is still one of the most exciting things I ever did.

Rainbow was, I believe, the last all-custom built boat Choey Lee made. It had a steel hull, aluminum deck house and two beautifully varnished wood masts. It was definitely not a racing boat, but the owner, Charles Scripps of the  Scripps publishing family wanted to do the race for the fun of doing it and for the party in Key West afterwards. I was invited along as crew because the mate on the boat was the first captain I had ever worked for a couple of years earlier. The fact was that the entire crew, with the exception of Mr. Scripps and his son Charlie, were professional sailors.

We started off well on a sunny Friday morning, but since it was a cruising boat and not a racer we weren’t fairing well. It was a laborious beat every few minutes between the north-flowing Gulf Stream and the shore. By the time we  reached Fowey Rock in Miami all of the other boats in our class were over the horizon and most of the smaller boats in the fleet were ahead of us as well.

In the middle of the afternoon the predicted cold front reached us and the wind shifted from south easterlies into the west and clocking into the northwest. We were now on a beam reach and we started to truck. We began to pass the smaller boats ahead of us with the lee rail awash. As it began to grow dark we tucked the first reef into the main sail but left the huge genny flying and hurtling us through the water like a locomotive.

After a terrific hot meal cooked on a gimbaled stove and served on a gimbaled table the four-hour watches were set and the off watch retired below to catch a few winks. I was assigned to the boss’s watch. About five years earlier I’d turned down a job opportunity with his now-defunct Hollywood Sun-Tattler newspaper. As I stood in the cockpit with the wheel vibrating like a living thing beneath my hands I told the gentleman who could have won, hands down, any Ernest Hemingway look-alike contest, that I’d turned down the job and thought it was the best decision I’d ever made.

“What do you mean by that?” he said looking at me over the top of his wire-rimmed half moon glasses.

“Well, just think of the thousands of people who work for you on your newspapers, radio and television stations and United Press International. Every one of them would crawl through broken glass just to have the chance to sit on this boat tied up at the dock. I turned the job down and here I am driving the thing.”

Sometime shortly after midnight a cannon shot roused those of us below out of our sleep. It was a quick scramble into our foul weather gear and within minutes we were on deck where we saw the huge genoa torn to shreds and snapping like pistol shots in the winds that were gusting up to 35 knots and more. In the couple of minutes it took to comprehend the situation the #2 genny was already being hauled out and we jumped into the foredeck to remove the destroyed sail.

The temperature and dropped by more than 4o degrees since the start of the race and with the wind chill it felt like it was in the 20s. The bow would drop into a wave and the warm water would flood the fore deck up to our necks, those of us on our knees clutching at the flailing pieces of sail and working hard to open the hanks to remove it from the fore stay. And as we struggled furiously the bow would rear high into the air and the cold, arctic wind would hit us and we couldn’t wait until we descended into the warmth of the water once more. In no time the sail was down and the new one was hanked on and other crew members were churning away at the halyard winch to raise the replacement.

In all, the old sail was down and the new one flying in less than five minutes.

Back in the cockpit the on-watch crew said that they had passed five boats in the previous three hours, and the number grew as the night wore on.

In the morning as we turned into the ship channel at Key West we blew out the #2 genoa as well and in short order the working jib was raised in its place.

When we were tied up at the dock we found out we were the fifth boat over the line at the end and we had passed up 15 boats altogether. Ted Turner, yes THAT Ted Turner, who had recently successfully defended the America’s Cup, came over and shook all of our hands. He said he was glad the race wasn’t another hundred miles longer because, “Nobody would have seen you guys.”

It was something I’ll never forget…the race or the party that followed. Sunday morning I woke up on a pile of sail bags on a boat I’d never been on before and didn’t recognize a soul aboard who were in about the same condition as I was.

Fourteen years later I sat at a table on a beautiful 96 foot Bruce Roberts ketch having lunch with Mr. Scripps once again after not having seen him in the previous 13 years. He asked if I’d like to “go live in France for six months or so.” He had an 85 foot sailboat over on the French Riviera in Antibes, between Cannes and Nice, that needed a captain. I believe you can find that story in earlier posts on this blog. Those “six months or so” ended up being nearly three years in France and getting to sail the boat across the Atlantic and the job ended up with a tenure of three and a half years.

Thirty five years since that first Fort Lauderdale to Key West Race. Where did all those years go?

Trivia question: Who on the stage is a Rhodes Scholar?

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Fog

There’s a blog of exceptional literary quality that I check on daily, and while bookmarked on my home page there is also a link here on the right side of the page in my “Blog Roll”…it’s called “The Task At Hand…A Writer’s On-Going Search for Just the Right Word” and is found here: http://shoreacres.wordpress.com/. Not only are the posts themselves a great read, but so are the comments and the author’s responses to them.

In her most recent posting one of the comments mentioned fog and it brought back memories I have had with fog.  Having a problem falling asleep tonight thoughts of  fog kept tickling my brain to the point that here I am at the keyboard at 3:25 a.m. writing about the stuff.

The poet Carl Sandburg wrote:

The fog comes

on little cat feet

It sits looking

over harbor and city

on silent haunches

and then moves on.

Sandburg was a fool. The only thing he got right was relating fog to a cat…both equally sinister, evil, sneaky and despicable entities.

Basically fog is little more than a cloud with a fear of flying. Fog forms when water vapor in the air at the surface begins to condense into liquid water and normally occurs at a relative humidity of 100%. This can be achieved by either adding moisture to the air or dropping the ambient air temperature.

There are several kinds of fog. Radiation Fog is formed by the cooling of the land after sunset by thermal radiation  in calm conditions with clear sky. The cool ground produces condensation  in the nearby air by heat conduction.  It occurs at night and generally doesn’t last long after sunrise when things begin to warm up. Radiation fog is most often referred to as Ground Fog.

Then there’s Advection fog which occurs when moist air passes over a cool surface by advection  (wind) and is cooled. It is common as a  warm front  passes over an area with significant snowpack and is most common at sea when tropical air encounters cooler waters. In Louisiana, where I worked for several years running crew boats, we would encounter advection fog in the Spring and Fall. In the Fall it was caused by cold air from northern winds sweeping over the warm waters of the marshes and the Gulf waters and in the Spring time when the shallow waters had been cooled by winter temperatures the fog would form when the warm air returned from the south. Advection fog is also known by sailors as Sea Smoke.

Precipitation fog (or frontal fog) forms as rain  falls into drier air below the cloud and the liquid droplets evaporate into water vapor. The water vapor cools and at the dewpoint it condenses and fog forms.

Upslope fog or hill fog forms when winds blow air up a slope  (called orographic lift), adiabatically (occurring without loss or gain of heat) as it rises, and causing the moisture in it to condense. This often causes freezing fog on mountaintops, where the cloud ceinling would not otherwise be low enough.

Valley fog forms in mountain valleys, often during winter. It is the result of a temperature inversion caused by heavier cold air settling into a valley, with warmer air passing over the mountains above. It is essentially radiation fog confined by local topography, and cal last for several days in calm conditions.

Frozen fog is any kind of fog where the droplets have frozen into extremely tiny crystals of ice in midair. Generally this requires temperatures at or below −35 °C (−30 °F), making it common only in and near the Arctic and Antarctic  regions. It is most often seen in urban areas where it is created by the freezing of water vapor present in automobile exhaust and combustion -products from heating and power generation. Urban ice fog can become extremely dense and will persist day and night until the temperature rises.

Garua fog is a type of fog which happens to occur by the coast of Chile and Peru. The normal fog produced by the sea travels inland, but suddenly meets an area of hot air. This causes the water particles of fog to shrink by evaporation, producing a transparent mist. Garua fog is nearly invisible, yet it still forces drivers to use windshield wipers.

Hail fog sometimes occurs in the vicinity of significant hail accumulations due to decreased temperature and increased moisture leading to saturation in a very shallow layer near the surface. It most often occurs when there is a warm, humid layer atop the hail and when wind is light. This ground fog tends to be localized but can be extremely dense and abrupt. It may form shortly after the hail falls; when the hail has had time to cool the air and as it absorbs heat when melting and evaporating.

None of the stuff is any good.

Fog was quite common where I grew up on Cape Cod since, essentially, the Cape is surrounded by water. To the east of my town of Orleans was the Atlantic Ocean and the cold Labrador current passes quite close to shore. The waters of Cape Cod and Buzzard’s Bay and Nantucket Sound to the north west and south are relatively warmer than the ocean so the mixing of warm and cold air passing over these bodies of water is very conducive to the formation of fog.

I vividly remember one night when my mother was driving my brothers and I back home from an excursion to Boston. Around Hyannis, about 30 miles west of where we lived, we ran into a real “pea souper.” Fog so thick we could barely see past the hood of the old “Woody” Ford station wagon we had at the time. (Boy, do I wish I had that car now; my financial worries would be over.)

Headlights are worthless in fog. The droplets of water diffuse and scatter the rays of light making visibility even worse. Knowing that the fog wouldn’t lift until after sunrise, there was no way my mother was going to have us camping out in the car over night. We were driving on what is now known as Route 6A, a narrow, two-lane, twisting road through Barnstable, Yarmouth, Harwich, Brewster and Orleans and then on up all the way to Provincetown where the Cape ends. Her solution was simple. She opened her door a crack and crept along in first gear keeping her eyes on the white line running down the center of the road. We spent several hours in that fashion moving slowly along the deserted road until we reached the road where we had to turn to get to our house. That wasn’t hard to recognize since there was only one stop light on 6A between Hyannis and Orleans.

For boaters there is absolutely NOTHING worse than fog. High winds and heavy seas can be dealt with rather easily. It’s hand to hand combat against the elements. A battle of survival. Fog is creepy. It distorts the perceptions. It blinds you. The horizon disappears. Fog even bends sound waves so that what you hear over there is actually over here. If you’re lucky and have radar you can at least determine what is hidden out of sight. Under normal operating conditions, out of sight of land, you steer the course indicated on your compass, but that’s not easy in the fog. In the brief time you take looking in the radar to check your surroundings by the time you look back at your compass you’ll be way off your course.

My first winter in Louisiana I worked in the oil and gas production field for Kerr-McGee in Breton Sound running a small, 48 foot crew boat similar to this:

We actually lived on Breton Island which is about 30 miles south east of the mainland and the southernmost of a chain of islands that extend north eastwards to Mississippi Sound. The field was immense, extending about 20 miles north of the island and 12 miles south and 10 miles or so east and west. There were hundreds of oil and high-pressure gas wells that fed into five “facilities” like this:

Each morning at 6 a.m. we would take the men who maintained the wells to their facilities and then spend the days running them to each well leading into their facilities for the next 12 hours. And we did it, literally, in all kinds of weather short of a hurricane. “Small craft warnings?” We laughed at small craft warnings. Actually we didn’t laugh at them, we simply ignored them and went about our work. The operating principle for crew boat skippers is you “go or go home.” And if you go home they don’t let you come back.

We would get horrible fog conditions each Fall and Spring but we went to work anyway. I remember one horrid day of fog. We’d taken the men to their facilities and then just tied off to the nearby barges that the crude oil was stored in to wait for the end of the day when we could take the men back to the island. I picked up three men and was heading back at idle speed peering into an ancient Kelvin-Hughes radar to pick up the day marker at the seaward side of the channel leading into the island’s lagoon.

I loved that old Kelvin-Hughes. All the other boats were equipped with newer Furunos but mine was the only radar that could pick up the marker, simply a piece of drill pipe driven into the bottom, and I could spot it from about three miles away. The Furunos couldn’t pick it up from anything over a half mile.

While I was creeping along the idiot captain of another boat was blasting along full-bore, and those boats topped out at around 35 mph, when he ran head-on into one of the big day markers that guided ocean-going freighters up the Mississippi Gulf Outlet Channel  to the Port of New Orleans. The accommodations in the crew boat cabins were aluminum bench-type, three-man seats through bolted to the aluminum deck. When he hit the day marker, and believe me he couldn’t have hit it any more perfectly had he been aiming for it, everyone was thrown forward by the sudden stop. One poor soul hit the back of the seat in front of him ripping the seat out of the deck and destroying everything south of his nose. The injured man had to suffer for another four hours as another crew boat searched for the damaged vessel, transferred him aboard and crept the 30 miles to the closest dock where an ambulance waited to take him to a hospital. Of the five boats out there that day, mine was the only one to make it back to the island for the night. Everyone else had to spend the night in the field.

No, fog is the only thing that scares me out on the water.

The great science fiction author, Ray Bradbury, had this to say:

“One day many years ago a man walked along and stood in the sound of the ocean on a cold, sunless shore and said, ‘We need a voice to call across the water, to warn ships; I’ll make one. I’ll make a voice like all of time and all the fog that ever was; I’ll make a voice that is like an empty bed beside you all night long, and like an empty house when you open the door, and like trees in autumn with no leaves. A sound like the birds flying south, crying, and a sound like November wind and the sea on the hard cold shore. I’ll make a sound that’s so alone that no one can miss it, that whoever hears it will weep in their soul, and hearths will seem warmer, and being inside will seem better to all who hear it in distant towns. I’ll make me a sound and an apparatus and they’ll call it a foghorn and whoever hears it will know the sadness of eternity and the briefness of life.’

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Dance As If No One Was Watching

“To dance is to be out of yourself. Larger, more beautiful, more powerful. This is power, it is glory on earth and it is yours for the taking.” ~Agnes De Mille

“Dancers are the athletes of God.” ~Albert Einstein

“Whatever you want to do, do it. There are only so many tomorrows”

“The people who do not dance are the dead.” ~Jerry Rose of Dance Caravan

“You know you’re dancing when tears of pain and happiness blend in with your sweat” ~anonymous

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“Champion” Jack Dupree Barrel House Piano Professor

“Champion”  Jack Dupree is another New Orleans piano pounder I have always admired though I never got to see him play. Orphaned at age 2 he grew up in the New Orleans Home for Colored Waifs as did Luis Armstrong. Jack taught himself piano and became known as a barrel-house  style “professor.”

In his early years he lived in Chicago and then moved to Detroit where he worked as a cook and met the great Joe Louis who encouraged Jack to become a boxer. He ultimately fought in 107 bouts and winning the Golden Gloves and other championships, and picked up the nickname “Champion Jack” that he used for the rest of his life.

Dupree moved to Europe in 1960 living in Switzerland, Denmark, Sweden and England before settling in Germany where he died of cancer in 1992.

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Cold Snap Has A Bright Side

In an earlier post I wrote about invasive species that inhabit south Florida. Among them are iguanas which are a real problem. Currently we are in the middle of the longest cold wave since 1927. The Sun-Sentinel, our local paper here in Fort Lauderdale reported, “Overnight temperatures in Miami dropped to 36 degrees, and West Palm Beach saw a low of 33, both shattering records set in 1927.”

Now I know that’s not earth shattering to most people around the world. I regularly check out the Cape Cod Times, a newspaper I worked for as a general assignment reporter back in 1964, and in the middle of the afternoon yesterday the temperature in Hyannis was 17! (One reason I headed south, and the temperatures HERE in Fort Lauderdale recently are the reason I’m retiring to Panama.)

One positive result of the cold snap is what it’s doing to the iguana population. There were stories that when the temperatures drop into the low forties the iguanas, which are reptiles and depend on the sun to maintain their body temperatures become comatose and fall out of the trees. Well, it’s true. When I was walking my dog, Penny, yesterday, I found this under a tree in an alley way we walk through…

And today, when I went out to start the engines on my boat because I have a prospective buyer, this is what I found…

I’m sure the cold didn’t get all of them, but the fewer the better.

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Are You Smarter Than A Pre-schooler?

You may be smarter than a fifth grader, but are you smarter than a Pre-schooler?

Look carefully at the following picture. Which way is the bus traveling? To the right or to the left?

Take your time and consider it carefully…right or left? Pre-schoolers all over the U.S. were shown the picture and 90% gave the same answer. What’s yours?

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v

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It’s traveling to the LEFT!

When asked, “Why do you think the bus is traveling to the left?”

They answered:  “Because you can’t see the door to get on the bus.”

So, how smart do you feel now, Einstein?

Thanks to

(http://bitsandpieces.us/)

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Don’t Sweat Lost User Manuals Ever Again

Ever have a problems with something you own and can’t find the manual that came with it? Don’t worry, the solution is just a mouse click away…

http://safemanuals.com/

The site offers access to 1,870,000 user’s guides for 5,600 different brands. Click on the link above and bookmark it…do it NOW!

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Dinner Is Served

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Bed & Breakfast Opportunity in Panama

Ever thought about owning your own B&B in a romantic location? Here’s your perfect opportunity. This 4,000+ square foot home with 3 seperate apartments in Panama City, Panama is currently for sale.

It’s recently renovated and located in the quiet residential neighborhood of Balboa in what was formerly called “The Canal Zone.” It’s just minutes away from world-class restaurants on the Amador Causeway; the Albrook Mall, one of the biggest shopping malls in the Western Hemisphere; and down town Panama City, one of the most cosmopolitan cities in world is a short, 10 minute drive away.

The house has 8 bedrooms, 5 baths and 3 kitchens and is TAX EXEMPT until 2022!!!

I know, personally, that the house is EXACTLY as described. I spent five days there this year and if I had the where with all I’d consider it for myself.

If you’re interested and contact the owner, let him know you saw it here on the Old Salt’s blog (and in the interest of full disclosure, there’s a little something in it for me if you do.)

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The $16.25 Divorce, a Tale of Seduction and an Afterword (Part 3)

There’s an interesting coincidence connecting three of my exes, and I’m not sure why it happens, but…

A couple of years after our divorce my ex wife Brenda returned to Missouri, found religion and married a fundamentalist preacher known as “Reverend Bob.”

When I took the job in France I wrote to our college’s alumni magazine to let my former classmates know that I was living on a mult-million dollar yacht on the French Riviera. A few months later I got a letter from Brenda (with no return address) that said she was glad to know that I had been able to achieve my dreams.

Carey returned to college, got a Master’s Degree in social work, moved to California, became a Moonie and got married in one of those mass weddings.

I’ve had some near-psychic experiences in my life. A couple of years after I’d moved to New Orleans I had a dream about Carey. In the dream she had come to New Orleans and said she wanted to marry me and that we should go back to Chicago together. I told her, in the dream, that I loved New Orleans, was making friends there and our time had passed. Believe it or not, two days later Carey called me on the phone and asked if she could come down and visit me. I told her of the dream and said I didn’t think it was a good idea at that time.

About a year later she called again saying she was moving to California and could she come down, now, before she left. I agreed and she arrived a week before Mardi Gras and got to see some of the evening parades. We had a great time together. The afternoon she was scheduled to return to Chicago we were getting ready to leave my apartment in the Garden District to take her to the train station when one of our favorite songs came on the radio…

We fell into each other’s arms, danced holding each other tightly and let the tears flow freely mourning for the things we had shared, the things we had lost and the things that would never be. When the song was over I picked up her bags and took her to the train station.

My most recent ex, whew, what to say? She will remain anonymous. She was a heavy drinker. Loved booze more than she loved me. Had two DUIs within a year and lost her license for five years. But it didn’t stop her from driving and it didn’t stop her from driving drunk. Less than a week before she was to get her license back she totaled her car, took off and filed a false police report saying the car had been stolen.

When I met her she’d been married seven times. I told her I would never ask her to marry me because I refused to be “Henry the Eighth.” Since we separated she’s married twice more. She worked for about a year for an escort service. The last I heard from her she and her, then, current husband had moved to the other side of the state. She said she’d stopped drinking and hadn’t had a drink for almost two years and she attended church every Sunday. When our phone call was interrupted by call waiting she asked if I wanted her phone number so I could call her back. I said, “no,” and clicked off.

Three exes who “found religion” after their association with me. I don’t believe I’m such a horrible guy that they somehow need to atone for knowing me. But who knows?

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