Category Archives: Retirement Abroad

Weird Water In Panama

Water is weird here in Panama. Right now it’s coming out of the sky but not out of the faucet.

There are often times when there is no tap water. Don Ray, who writes the Chiriqui Chatter blog lives in the City of David (Panama’s third largest metropolis which is strange if you think of a place with only four stop lights as a metropolis) often writes that he has no water from his taps. Sometimes it’s for days at a time.

After the recent devastating river flooding that took out one of the bridges on the Interamerican highway there was no water here in Boquerón for several days though, fortunately I was still in Potrerillos Arriba then and never had a moment without water. Often after a heavy downpour water service is cut off because the turbidity in the rivers where IDAAN, the water company, draws its supply from, clogs the filters.

In Panama City, referred to simply as Panamá, where almost half of the entire country’s population reside they’re building a subway system and a couple of weeks ago it was necessary to shut off the city’s entire water supply for a whole weekend to reroute the water around the tunnel. Can you imagine what the outcry would be like in the States if everyone’s water was shut off for a couple of days in a city of a million and a half residents? Heads would roll.

But here people just shrug their shoulders and get on with their lives. If they were French they’d shrug their shoulders, make a “poof” sound through their lips and say “c’est la vie, hein?” (If you think English is a strange language because of its non-phonetic spelling, try French. Hein is pronounced “eh?” Go figure.) I don’t think there’s a Spanish phrase that expresses the same feeling as that one does.

Since water outages are a common, though thankfully not a daily, occurrence there is a good market for large plastic water tanks here. And I mean LARGE. In some cases several hundred gallon tanks. Most of them are black or bright blue and just sitting here I can think of at least four stores in an around David that stock the things along with pumps to feed the water into houses. We don’t have one of those here at this house though there has been talk of getting one. Instead I have three five-gallon pails that I keep filled with water for those times when there is no tap water. Most of the time I just keep them under the roof line and collect rain water in them. I don’t drink it, but use it for other things like flushing the toilet or washing dishes and clothes. I’ll be doing a post about laundry sometime soon.

For drinking water I have a five-gallon cooler thingy that I keep topped off with filtered water that I collect from the faucet when there is tap water, and I have a two-gallon jug of filtered water in the fridge.

When I was over visiting in Bocas del Toro I noticed that many of the houses not only had a big water tank but they had fitted out their roofs with large-diameter PVC pipes where rain gutters would normally be so they could collect and store rain water. Made a lot of sense to me.

Here in my neighborhood where the water supply through the tap is often just a trickle, for some unknown reason, most daytime hours there is one constant water supply. The river. Almost every day I’ll see people coming down the street with towels over their shoulders and a bag in one hand with soap, shampoo and razors and they go down to the river and bathe in the cool water. Quite often I see women bringing down their dirty clothes to do their laundry in the river. Nobody thinks anything of it. Nobody moans and groans about it as far as I know. It’s just how life is here. People cope and get along with living.

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Pride of Chiriqui

Yesterday morning my next door neighbor, the one who has 30 (that’s right, count ‘em, THIRTY) fighting cocks, was out in his front yard letting some of his roosters have a sparring session.

There were three or four other men who were not from the neighborhood standing around watching. I ambled on over. I’ve had a bit of an interest in cockfighting since my paternal grandfather used to raise and fight the birds in and around Woburn, Mass. back at least into the early 1950s. It was, of course, highly illegal.

Anyway, I asked when he was going to fight them for real the next time and he said, “Tomorrow night at Las Brisas.” Las Brisas is a “Jardin (a combination bar and dance hall often with a cockfighting pit) in David, right on the bus route into the city. I said I’d really like to see him fight his birds but transportation was a problem since I don’t have a car. A young, solidly built young man in the crowd said, in English, “you really want to go?” I said I did and explained about my grandfather and his birds. “I’ll take you,” the young man said.

I stuck out my hand and introduced myself. “I’m Carlos,” he said. We talked for a little bit, me using a combination of English and Spanish since I honestly feel it’s impolite to speak to Panamanians in English and try my best to talk with them in Spanish. All of my neighbors only speak Spanish so I stretch myself all the time. But Carlos spoke to me only in English.

I asked where he learned his English. “In the States,” he said.

“Where in the States?”

“Philadelphia.”

“Really. What do you do there?” I asked.

“I play for the Phillies,” he said.

Now, I’m not a big baseball fan. Oh, I like it well enough but I don’t follow it and I think Ted Williams and Don Drysdale are the most recent players I could name. Back in the mid 70s when I spent two summers running a 300-passenger sightseeing boat in Chicago I lived just a few blocks from Wrigley Field and I’d go catch a couple of games. Not so much that I liked baseball, but it was a nice way to spend an afternoon. Those were the days before Wrigley put in lights so naturally all of the games were played during the day as God meant the game to be played, and it only cost $3 for a general-admission grandstand seat. I could sit in the shade and watch pretty girls walking around and people would bring beer, hotdogs and peanuts to my seat. Sometimes I’d even watch the action on the field.

So, being totally ignorant of who I was talking, to we watched the birds spar for a while and I wandered back to the house. “I’ll be here at seven tomorrow,” Carlos said, “if you want to go.”

“See you then,” I said.

Back home I went on line, checked out the Phillies roster and found out the young man’s name is Carlos Ruiz, and he’s quite a guy. He’s the team’s starting catcher.

(Photo from Wikipedia)

A champion, in fact since the Phillies won the World Series in 2008, and Carlos had a big hand in doing it.

In game three he hit his first post-season home run and then in the ninth he recorded a walk-off single, sending Eric Bruntlett home from third, becoming the fourth National League player to hit a bases-loaded walk-off hit in World Series history, the first to deliver a walk-off infield hit, and the first walk-off of any kind by a Phillies player in the World Series. ( A walk off is a hit that ends the game. It must be a hit that gives the home team the lead, and consequently, the win, in the bottom of the final inning of the game—either the ninth inning, or any extra inning, or any other regularly scheduled final inning. It is called a “walk-off” because both teams walk off the field immediately afterward, rather than finishing the inning.)

In 2007, Carlos had one of the highest fielding percentages in baseball among catchers with a .997, with only 2 errors in 744 chances. On June 26, 2007, Ruiz stole home on the front end of a double steal in an 11–4 home win over the Cincinnati Reds, becoming the first Phillie to steal home in 10 years and the first Phillies catcher to steal home in 25 years.

In 2010, he became the only player of Panamanian descent to catch a perfect game, and raised his season batting average to a career-best .302.

Ruiz caught Roy Halladay’s perfect game on May 29, 2010 against the Florida Marlins and Halladay’s no-hitter against the Reds in the first game of the National League Divisional Series on October 6, 2010. In so doing, he became the first man since the Chicago Cubs’ Randy Hundley in 1972, to catch two no-hitters during the same season and the first since Yogi Berra in 1951 to catch two no-hitters by the same pitcher during the same season On August 12, 2010, when the Phillies were down 9–2 going into the 8th inning, they scored 8 runs in the 8th inning. The following inning, the bottom of the 9th, the Phillies were tied and Ruiz hit a walk off double to win the game, 10–9.

In 2010, Carlos received the Pride of Philadelphia Award from the Philadelphia Sports Hall of Fame.

In 2011, he was rated the most underrated catcher in baseball by Jason Stark of ESPN. One scout in the MLB quoted, “I think he’s the best catcher in the game – other than [Joe] Mauer, who’s on a different planet.”

Born here in David, Chiricanos are rightfully proud of their native son as should all Panamanians. I’m honored to be riding to the cockfights with him this evening.

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I Felt THAT One!

Panama sits on the eastern edge of the “Ring of Fire.”

The “Ring of Fire” has 452 volcanoes and is home to over 75% of the world’s active and dormant volcanoes. Here in Chiriqui Province we sit in the shadow of Volcan Barú. One of the dormant ones. Shhhh. Don’t wake it up.

About 90% of the world’s earthquakes and 89% of the world’s largest earthquakes occur along the Ring of Fire.

I’ve lived most of my life (so far) in the hurricane magnets of Cape Cod, southeast Florida and New Orleans. One of the few good things about hurricanes, besides providing shovel-ready jobs for construction workers in the areas they hit, is that you know about them days and sometimes weeks before they nail ya so you have a chance to run away and hide somewhere if you have any sense.

Earthquakes, on the other hand, just HAPPEN! No rhyme, reason or warning. BAM!

Since I’ve been living in Panama we’ve had several small quakes and they’ve all gone unnoticed by me. Well, I thought I’d felt one once a few months ago in Potrerillos Arriba, but there was no mention of it anywhere in the media.

This morning, around 2 a.m. (EST) as visions of sugar plums danced in my head the world started to tremble and shake. Dishes rattled in the cupboard and knives forks and spoons jingled in their holder. There was no doubt that THIS is what an earthquake feels like. It didn’t last all that long and if there were any after shocks I didn’t feel them and fell back to sleep almost immediately.

This morning I learned that we had a 5.0 quake with an epicenter according to the United States Geological Survey some 23 miles west of David. That’s about directly under my bed. In 2009 there was a 6.2 quake in this same area that, while not causing any injuries did result in some structural damage to buildings.

The cash cow of the country, the Panama Canal and Panama City itself, the home to slightly more than half of the country’s population isn’t immune from the threat of earthquakes. In fact, there are two fault lines in the area, one that transects the Canal itself. Quite a bit has been written about this and the impending quakes that must inevitably come.

http://www.newscientist.com/article/dn19745-panama-canal-is-due-a-big-earthquake.html

http://news.discovery.com/earth/panama-canal-quakes.html

(Anita Carter was Johnny Cash’s sister-in-law)

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Rolling On The River

You can always tell when it’s been raining up in the mountains by what’s happening in the little river beside the house. This morning it was, for this time of year, a mere trickle. In the middle of the afternoon you could hear the sound level rise and a glance out the kitchen window confirmed that the river had risen considerably though no rain had fallen here yet. By late afternoon we were getting a decent soaking and three teens came down with inner tubes.

“Why don’t you go up higher?” I said in my broken Spanish. “You’ll get a longer and faster ride. They agreed. It took them a while to make their way up stream a few hundred yards and then you could hear them yelling with delight.

I didn’t see them after that. Who knows? The could have gone all the way down to the Pacific Ocean.

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Mi Libro en Español

Last night the English Department of the Universidad Latina in David held an event to honor the authors who wrote the books that students translated as a requisite for graduation. I was one of the authors. Before the event Stephany Michell Peñaloza, who translated the first half of my book Despair! The Ill-Fated Last Voyage of the Admiral of the Ocean Sea, presented me with a bound copy of her portion of the book. She received a grade of 100 for her work!

This is Stephany:

She’s as smart as she is beautiful.

I know they say “pride goeth before a fall,” but I think this is pretty damned cool!!!

I don’t know what happened with the other girl, Deyreth, who was translating the other half of the book and Stephany either didn’t know or wouldn’t say. I stayed up late into the night when I got home reading the book.  While it was, of course, in Spanish, I didn’t have a problem reading it because I knew what it said, anyway. It was just neat seeing it in another language.

The event was kind of funny. While it was for the School of English I was stuck at a table with nine people who didn’t speak a word of the language and my meager Spanish was pushed to the breaking point. One of the gentlemen at the table coined a new word, I believe. David is the capitol city of the Province of Chiriqui. Chiriqui is a unique place and I truly believe if the people here had a choice they would choose to be their own independent country.

The residents of the province are referred to as “Chiricanos.” This one gentleman, whose name I don’t remember, asked me where I lived. I said, “Yo soy gringo.” (I’m a gringo.) He laughed and asked if I lived here. I said I did, in Boquerón. “Ah,” he said with a sly smile, “then you’re a ‘Chiringo’.”

I can live with that.

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Thank God, No Green Been Casserole This Thanksgiving

This is the sixth Thanksgiving I’ve spent outside of the U.S. Two of those were at sea. In ’91 I was coming across the Atlantic on the Jolie Aire and I believe we dined on freshly-caught dolphin. The next one was in ’92. I was on my beloved Nancy Dawson in Isla Mujeres, Mexico. I was nearly broke at the time and I think my Thanksgiving repast that year was refried beans and salsa on tortillas crisped on the two-burner stove.

There were two Thanksgiving dinners while I was over in Antibes. One was at Chez Charlie’s Pub and the other at Le Rouf. They were both good. Turkey, mashed potatoes, etc. Close, but not like in the States, but the effort that the cooks at those two places put in to trying to give the gringo expats a taste of home for the day was appreciated.

Here in Panama it’s just another day. Sort of like how Mardi Gras is in the States except for that thin strip of land between Mobile, Alabama (where the first Mardi Gras was celebrated) and east Texas. In the El Rey supermarket in David where I do most of my grocery shopping frozen Butterball turkeys suddenly appeared in the frozen food section and they were pricey. Around $30/$40 for a 12 pound bird. With quite a large gringo expat community in this area several of the restaurants put on a, sort of, traditional feed bag. Last year I went to the Ciudad de David Hotel and had a fine buffet meal with a couple of beers and an espresso afterwards and with the Pensionado discount it ran about $12 plus tip. Plus I got to watch the New England Patriots football game. Looking at what’s being offered around the area this year it seems the cost of a turkey dinner is anywhere from $15 to $20, topping out at $45 at a very upscale place in Boquete.

Of course the temptation to do go somewhere this year is strong. I’m tempted to try the Cuatro Restaurant which is right on the bus route I take into David. They’re offering grilled turkey breast over sweet potato hash (whatever that is) with cranberry sauce or, braised turkey leg meat over bacon and blue cheese mashed potatoes with cornbread. $15. Dessert will set one back another five bucks.

Okay, so I know you’re all anxious to find out what I did this Thanksgiving. Well, while most Americans would like to believe it’s carved in stone somewhere that we down commercial-sized portions of turkey, mashed potatoes and gravy and that disgusting sting bean casserole today, it’s NOT. Like the name of the day says it’s a day to give thanks for what we have. I’m thankful to be here in Panama and only have to be subjected to the election nonsense that’s pervading the airwaves of America. Gee-ZUS! There you have Ron Paul, 2012’s answer to R0ss Perot. Then there’s the guy named after a slimy amphibian that lives under rocks touting “family values.” Which family, Newt? Your first, second or third? Rick Perry? You know there have to be claw marks on the inside of Molly Ivans’s casket as she tries to get out for just one more go-’round with Governor Good Hair.Plain vanilla Mittens Romney. They guy who crafted the health plan in Massachusetts that “Obama Care” is patterned after and now he has to eat crow and denounce his own plan. One question about the Mormon magic underwear, Mitt…boxers or briefs? And I don’t even want to get started on the three stooges of insanity: Bachmann, Santorum and Cain.

I’m thankful to be living in a beautiful country surrounded by friendly people and being able to enjoy a comfortable lifestyle on what little money I have.

I’m thankful that I woke up to another day.

Though I’ve moved all my stuff into the house in Boquerón there are still things I need so I decided, instead of going to have a semi-traditional Thanksgiving dinner I’d go do some necessary shopping and stop at a place along the way that a lot of people around here have been writing about lately. I stopped off at the Chirqui Mall and had a delicious Philly cheese steak sandwich. Most places here fall flat on their faces trying to cook gringo food. Don’t EVER order a hamburger. They don’t have a clue. But the cheese steak sandwich was spot on delicious. Grilled onions, heavenly melted cheese all done in a very nice Italian-bread roll. Yummy to say the least. Maybe next year I’ll go have turkey and the fixings but this year I was thankful for what I had.

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New Digs and the Internet

The house over here in Boquerón is not hooked up to the internet nor television as is the house on the side of the mountain. I don’t care about not having T.V. Here in a Spanish-speaking country if you want to watch television programs in English you have to subscribe to some kind of satellite service such as Sky or Claró  and I believe Cable & Wireless and Cable Onda will wire your house. In Potrerillos Arriba the owners had a huge Sky dish out in the back yard. Had it been up to me, and naturally it wasn’t, I would have forgone the $32.48 monthly fee. The programming wasn’t all that great and I only watched a few programs on National Geographic, History and Discovery Channel.

An internet connection, on the other hand, is essential for me. The internet is my major source of entertainment. It’s the only way I can download books from Audible.com to my iPod and reading material to my Kindle. The internet keeps me connected to the world. I freak when I can’t get on line to check out my email throughout the day.

Seven months or so ago when I was living over here in Boquerón I had subscribed with C & W for one of their USB modems. I had to sign a contract and then when everything was hooked up it really sucked. It was like going back to the days of a telephone connection. About the only thing you could do with it was check email and you were restricted to only being able to down and up load a maximum of 2 gigabytes. That may seem like quite a bit, but it’s not. You can run through that in just a few days and then, like so many cell phone plans in the States you pay extortionate overtime charges. The monthly charge for this horrid service was forty something bucks a month. My first month I racked up over $100 bucks in overtime without even knowing it, and after that I was very frugal with my on line time.

As my regular readers know, Panama is rapidly becoming a “wired” country. Most small towns have what are called “Info Plazas.”

The sign says, “Closing the Digital Gap.”

Here in Boquerón there are eight, very up to date computers for people to use and there is also Wi-Fi service. When I was here before it cost 35¢ an hour to either use one of the computers or log on to the Wi-Fi. Of course that depended on who was in charge when I was up there to do my web-surfing. If Nancy was at the desk she logged when I logged on and when I checked out and charged me the 35¢ for each hour. But even playing around for three hours only set me back $1.05 which anyone would agree is quite a bargain. If Karina was manning the plaza I could have stayed there all day and she’d only charge me a flat fee of 35¢. I liked Karina a lot. Now, however, under President Martinelli’s push to get the entire country on line there is no charge at all.

Up on the mountain we were connected to the internet by a company called MobileNet. It cost $45.45/month. It is some kind of a wireless system where the house had an antenna. It wasn’t blinding speed by any means but pretty good though playing streaming videos on YouTube were a bit of a hassle. You had to start the vid and then pause it and wait until the little line at the bottom of the picture filled in otherwise it would play for a few seconds and then stop while it buffered some more. Oh, well, life’s not perfect.

I discontinued my service with C & W for the USB after paying for a lot of months when I didn’t use it at all. One of the problems with having a contracted service. But I still wanted to be able to check my emails and read the news when I got up in the mornings without having to wait for the info plaza to open sometime between 9 and 10 and not at all on Sunday though I could still sit out on the bleachers of the covered basketball court outside the town hall and still get a Wi-Fi feed. But it’s still about a half mile from the house.What to do?

Since I’m going to probably be here for the next two years I checked the possibility of getting the house wired. I know C&W hooks up the houses around here and I asked MobileNet a while back when I went to pay the bill if they serviced Boquerón. They said they did in some parts but we didn’t know if the house was in one of those areas. It probably is but I didn’t ask about connection fees or any of that and I didn’t ask C&W but they were on the list of things to do after I got settled in.

I wasn’t going to  go through the whole contract and lousy connection business with C&W again but in Plaza Terronal where I do my grocery shopping there are four cell phone companies, and I noticed in the Claró window they had a USB modem on display so I checked them out. You buy the modem for $40. Well, $39.99 but forty is close enough. You can either sign up with a contract or pre-pay. For $40 a month you can get unlimited service. Last Tuesday I went down and did the deed. I bought the modem and paid the $40. After taxes it came to $84! Sigh, but since it’s pre-paid if it really sucked I’d just be stuck with buying the modem and rely check out getting the house wired.

When I went back up on the mountain I tried it out and, like the old C&W thingy it sucked! Oh, well. The owners of the Potrerillos house drove me here to Boquerón late yesterday morning and naturally one of the first things I did was to plug in the computer and try out the connection.

Let me tell you, they aren’t going to be seeing a lot of me at the Info Plaza. THIS one works great. It’s easily as fast if not a tad faster than the MobileNet connection in Potrerillos Arriba. It still takes a bit of time for a YouTube video to load all the way but it’s probably twice as fast which is nice. I’m going to keep this one and I’ll be saving $5/month over the MobileNet fee.

I’m a happy camper except for the fact that now my camera is acting up.

 

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Last Solo Sunrise

The only thing special about today’s sunrise is that I was able to witness it. This is the last sunrise I’ll see in Potrerillos Arriba with no one else around except the dog. The owners arrive late this afternoon. I’ll be spending the night for a couple of reasons. One, they’ll be traveling all day long and, as I did last year, I’ll fix dinner. Two, you can’t say, “welcome home, thanks for letting me live in your house for free the last eight months. . . see ya!” and split. Well, I guess some people could do that but I can’t.

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Twofer Tuesday

When I got the idea to document my last week of sunrises, +1, here on the mountain in Potrerillos Arriba, this is the kind of morning I’d been hoping for. So far the sunrises haven’t been as glorious as they often are here, but this morning didn’t disappoint me. It was so good, in fact that I have to give you two shots instead of just one.

It started off like this:

And ended up like this:

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A Week To Go In Potrerillos Arriba

I’ve got one week left up here on the side of the mountain in Potrerillos Arriba. The owners return next Thursday. The travel from Taos, New Mexico, and are exhausted by the time they get here, so like I did last year I’ll have a dinner prepared for them. Last year I made a nice Cuban Picadillo like I used to eat in Florida. This year I’ve decided to do chicken ala king. Since the buses stop running early, here, I’ll stay over night and go over to Boqueron in the morning.

This may bore you over the next week, but I’m going to be posting a shot of the sunrises I have left in this beautiful setting. I’ve been very fortunate to have had the opportunity to live in this house. I’ll definitely miss sitting out on the front porch with my morning cup of coffee made from beans grown just over the valley to the east.

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