Category Archives: Retirement Abroad

Learning Curve

Things I learned this week:

La Concepcion is not the place to go for grocery shopping. It takes two buses each way at a cost of $1.60. A bit cheaper than Potrerillos to David round trip which was $1.80. A shopping trip from Boquerón to David also requires two buses each way and costs the same as going to La Concepcion.

El Rey is the best grocery store for all around shopping. There are four groceries in the area: El Rey, Super Baru, Romero (affiliated with El Rey) and Super 99 (owned by Panama’s President, Ricardo Martinelli). El Rey is the only place that has Jell-O Chocolate Pudding Mix. Romero, on the other hand, is the only place stocking Grandma’s Molasses (an essential ingredient for a couple of bread recipes I bake) and Baru (named after Panama’s highest peak, an extinct volcano) is the only one that has Kikkoman soy sauce. I don’t like Super 99. It has nothing to do with politics. To me it’s a bit like the Winn-Dixie near where I lived in Fort Lauderdale. Every time I shopped there I felt like I needed to take a bath when I got home.
Just because you come up with something that seems like a good idea doesn’t mean you should try it out. But that’s part of what makes it a learning curve, isn’t it?

About three quarters of the way to the bus terminal in David there is a large Romero. From the outside it seems to be about as big as the Rey I was headed for. Shopping there would mean not having to take two extra buses, not that the 60 cents they’d cost makes any difference. Well, this store was better than the other two Romeros I’ve been in but still not on a par with Rey.

The problem came trying to catch the bus back home. There are only two an hour. I barely missed the first one so I had to cool my heels for half an hour. No big deal except the next one that came along was full to the brim as was the one a half hour after that. After 90 minutes I was able to get one of the last three seats on the Boquerón bus.

So it’s back to Plan A which is to do the four bus shuffle. At least if I start my return trip from the terminal it’s a lock on getting a seat. And it’s not a problem if I have to wait a while. Most of the little kioskos sell 30 cent scoops of a decent chocolate ice cream and I can enjoy it while watching the passing parade of Panama: school children in their uniforms, Indian women in their native garb and just the ordinary people of the country. I love the terminal. Anyone coming to visit me, even if they rent a car, will have to spend an hour or so there.

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Solving Problems

The house here in Boqueron, like my Spanish, is a work in progress. Last year the owners did major renovations on it but weren’t able to finish everything in the limited time they were able to spend in Panama before returning to Texas.

The major problem remaining unfinished was storage and shelving. The owner said that he and his wife had lived out of their suitcases while they were here. Since I’ve signed on for six months that’s not an acceptable solution for me. I was told that whatever improvements I made on the house out of my own pocket should just be taken off of the rent.

Being able to hang up my clothes (and I admit that I usually hang my dirty stuff on the floor) was easily remedied. I simply measured the width of the huge walk-in closet upstairs and bought an adjustable shower curtain rod to span the distance and voilá, problem solved.

The biggest problem was the lack of shelving in the kitchen and under the sink. There was nothing there except open space.

I spent quite a bit of time trying to figure out a solution to this problem. It wouldn’t be too hard to build some shelving but the problem would be getting the wood to the house. I’d either have to beg help from someone with a truck or pay one of the pickup trucks that are used as taxis around here which would probably cost more than it was worth. Even before I moved in, and knowing the lack of storage I’d spent time wandering through the Do It Center (a Home Depot kind of store without the lumber) and its competition Novey to see if I could come up with some ideas. Of course there are all kinds of shelving solutions where you screw slotted jobber dos into a wall and then insert arms where you want them and lay shelving upon those. Reasonably priced, but the problem here was that anywhere you needed to drill into something you’d need to have a masonry bit because EVERYTHING is concrete.

Tuesday I was in Novey and they had the solution I’d been looking for. Inexpensive, no drilling needed.

I bought two of them immediately and a couple of other things I needed and yesterday I went back and bought three more. They were $11/each. Two of them are under the counter right now, one is set up next to the stove to hold the pots and pans and another is in the closet for the underwear, socks, etc. I haven’t decided where the fifth one is going to go. Probably under the sink counter, too.

The advantages of this solution is that it didn’t require any construction. No sawing, no drilling, just put the pieces together in a few minutes and it’s done. Plus, the owners don’t have to like it. They’ll most likely deal with the problem in a permanent way. So, when my time  here is up I’ll simply disassemble and stack them up and take them with me. They won’t take up much space wherever I land after this.

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Ants On The Move

One late afternoon last week while walking down the driveway to lock the gate for the evening I came across a huge line of very large black ants crossing from one side of he drive to the other. Massive, uncountable  numbers on the move and obviously on a mission.

Sunday night the National Geographic Channel premiered a new series called “Grand Migrations.” One segment was about Army Ants in Costa Rica and it seemed very similar to what I had witnessed a couple of days earlier. We are, after all, only a few miles from the border with Costa Rica so these were probably Army Ants as well. In the t.v. series it seemed the column of ants covered a wide area while the column here was quite orderly and only about three inches wide.

Yesterday, the day after watching the ants on the tube, as I went to deposit a bag of trash in the bin out on the car port when I turned the corner of the house the entire area was covered with migrating ants.

They came out of the grass on the east side of the house and streamed down the 55′-long rain gutter to the west side

where they made a left hand turn onto the 25’X6′ walkway along side the house

and then performed a column right onto the 12′ X 6′ covered walkway to the carport


and then spread out to cover the entire floor of the18′ X 12′ carport.

They were moving with purpose. Picture the entire concrete area in the last three photos a seething, moving carpet of large, black ants.

I didn’t run for my camera to capture this stomach-turning and frightening sight but for a can of poison instead. After my genocidal application of chemical death from above I hadn’t stopped the march but did manage to divert it to the the rain gutter that runs around the house and behind the storage room at the back of the carport. This accomplished I then got out my video camera and recorded the following:

The migration continued into the night and with morning’s light it was as if they had never been here.  I have no idea where they ended up

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A Single Finger Salute To The Tea Party

About two kilometers below the house here in Potrerillos Arriba is a large agro-business complex, Grupo Athanasiadis, also known as Avicola. They are a major employer in the area and a large percentage of the workers are local Indians. Avicola “is dedicated to the production of fertile eggs; seedstock breeder hens imported from the U.S., the best meat-producing breeds with American technology and equipment.” They are also involved with beef, pork, egg production for consumption and juices.

Occasionally the bus I ride up and down the mountain will make a detour into the Avicola grounds and on the side of one of the buildings is the following sign.

It reads:

Something Different:

Capitalism and Socialism

The Best Combination

Entrepreneurs and Workers

Satisfied and Happy, United

For a More Just Society and a Better

Panamá

Below the hand shake it says:

We Act With Conscience

I like the sentiments expressed in the sign. Whether the company actually follows through on it I don’t know.  They do run a small grocery store on the premises and their web site says the goods there are available to their employees “at cost.” It is open to the public and I have shopped there a couple of times. The price of chicken and other meats is less than what you would pay at El Rey or Super Baru supermarkets and is probably the source for those markets meats.

“Capitalism and Socialism: The Best Combination.” Take THAT all you Tea Party Patooties who shudder and quake at the dreaded word “Socialism.” I feel sorry for my homeland and what it has become and that millions of middle class Americans will go out and vote against their own best interests next Tuesday.

 

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Security Information

I just read a post in a local blog about some recent break-ins and thefts in my neighborhood. It got me to thinking about what you should do to aid the police should something happen like that to you.

Make a list of all the stuff you own that are easy targets for thieves…cameras, iPods, computers, jewelery, etc. List the brand, model and serial numbers. Take digital photos where possible. And for travelers take a photo or scan the first two pages of your passport. Put all that information into an email and send it to yourself. Make a folder in your email section listed as “Serial Numbers” or something similar. That way, if your stuff turns up missing you can access all the needed information from any computer with internet access at any time anywhere.

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A Quick Peek At Boqueron

I rented the house in Boqueron without the slightest idea of what the town looked like. In a lot of ways it really didn’t matter. What DID matter was that I needed to find a place that would give me a six month lease. It had to be furnished with a functioning kitchen consisting of at least a working refrigerator and a stove with an oven. It had to have easy and close access to transportation and fit within my limited budget.

One place I looked at would actually be in sight of where I’m living now if it wasn’t for a line of trees in the way. It’s right across the street from where I catch the bus to go down to David and Dolega.

I’ve always liked this house with its attractive landscaping and when I was told that it was furnished and available for $175 a month I couldn’t wait to take a look at it. Well, it gives meaning to not judging a book by its cover. The interior left a lot to be desired. What pass for rooms are more like cubicles. The walls, made of painted cement block, extend up from the floor to a height of about seven feet and there are no ceilings. In fact there are no ceilings at all, simply the tin roof topping everything and there’s no telling what it must sound like in the nearly daily deluges we get here. The kitchen, such as it is, consists of a refrigerator that probably saw better days a couple of decades ago and the cooking arrangements are a two-burner contraption similar to what I kept in Fort Lauderdale for hurricane emergencies. To get to the toilet you have to go out the back door to a facility that could only have been an after thought. Not exactly an out house but pretty damned close. The front and back doors are secured with padlocks.  And there is no hot water, either.

Fortunately I was able to beg off giving an answer right away by saying, truthfully, that I had made an appointment to see the house in Boqueron the next day and since I’d given my word I had to go.

Today I decided to go check out the town where I’ll be living. The transportation situation is a bit better from David to Boqueron than it is to Potrerillos Arriba. Here there’s a bus once an hour. The buses run from the terminal in David to Boqueron on the hour and half hour. It costs me 90¢ to take the bus from here to David. It’s 45¢ down to Dolega. From David to Boqueron is a half buck with the Jubilado discount. There are some alternatives if I wouldn’t want to wait for the bus that goes directly into Boqueron. I could take the buses that go to La Concepcion, Puerto Armuelles or La Frontera and get off at the intersection where the road from Boqueron meets the Interamerican Highway. But then I’d have to take a cab to the house which is about two and a half kilometers from the main highway.

I was pleasantly surprised by what I found Boqueron to be. It’s slightly smaller than my favorite, Dolega, with a population of about 1,500. Like Dolega, the place is clean. The residents obviously take pride in their town. You won’t find huge, gringo-style homes here. Rather they are generally medium-sized, well maintained and, once more, would fit right in with most middle-class residential neighborhoods in southeast Florida.

As in Dolega, the streets off of the main drag have a rural feel to them.

Incidentally, about an hour later, waiting at the bus to go back to David, I talked with the girl in the photo. Her tee shirt said something about being an English student. She’s been studying for about a year and does quite well. She says she writes English very well but has a problem with the spoken word since none of her fellow students want to speak it outside of class. She wants to be a teacher and apparently it is now a requirement in Panama for teachers to be able to speak English.

I kind of like the idea of City Hall being called a Palace…

There were two paintings on the face of the building:

God – Country – Work

For the Benefit of the World

In the first crest there’s a reason for the machete. The things are everywhere. Riding on the bus the Indian men often have one as they go to and from work. And they are artists with them, too. Over the weekend two Indians chopped back the vegetation around the house and they accomplished it in about a third of the time, or less, than it would have taken me to do with the weed whacker. A while back there was a youngster on the bus going to some pageant, apparently, dressed in traditional country garb and sporting a toy machete stuck in his sash. But I’m wondering if the book over the machete in the crest is trying to send a subliminal message like: “get an education or you’re going to be using one of these for the rest of your working life.”

The central picture on the second crest is obviously the Canal the country is so rightfully proud of, but what’s with the Hell’s Angels motorcycle patch in the lower right?

Right next to the Town Hall is a covered basketball court. As it was noon time when I was there, several municipal workers were sitting on the bleachers having their lunch.

Down the road aways, and though I didn’t visit it, there is a baseball stadium.

Naturally the center of every town here in Panama has a church. The one in Boqueron is modern and, I think, quite attractive. Unfortunately there was no way to get a shot of the whole church and its bell tower without those damned electric lines in the way.

Of course no town would be complete without a central park and I think the one in Boqueron is pretty nice.

Down a pretty steep hill, which I didn’t try to negotiate today. is the town’s Fair Ground but I’m curious what Club Lazo is about. Anyway, they’re waiting for us.

There are a couple of small “tiendas” in the town as well as the local “Chino’s.” Most of the small markets in Panama are owned by Chinese. Here you can get most of the staples you need, a limited supply of veggies and meats. For major shopping you need to go to David, or, most likely since it’s closer, La Concepcion.

Naturally, since Boqueron is only 300 feet  above sea level it’s going to be a lot hotter than it is up on the side of the mountain. But not to worry, there’s plenty of cold suds at Bar Beny. Wonder if the Jets drink here?

Overall I think Boqueron is equally as attractive as Dolega, but there are warts to every thing of beauty. In this case I found it at the bus stop waiting to go back to David.

I didn’t spend a whole lot of time in Boqueron today. It was clouding up fast and I wanted to get out before it started raining. I managed to avoid it until I got back up on the hill, but I never leave home without my umbrella. I’m looking forward to spending the next six months in this pretty little town.

 

 

 

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A New Place To Live

One month from today the owners of the house I’ve been living in for the past five months return.

My first choice for a move would have been to Dolega, a small town about half way between Potrerillos Arriba and David. Click here to see my previous post about this village. But I couldn’t find any available houses of apartments for rent there despite asking people at the stores, in the park and strolling around.

Daily I checked craigslist both for houses and apartments by themselves as well as the possibility of finding a shared place. One ad caught my attention, the price was right, the location seemed fine (in David itself), but when I inquired about who I might be sharing the house with it turned out that the other occupants were in their 20s and 3os. Wouldn’t have worked. I did check out one place that was offered by someone I met on a visit to the hostel where I stayed in David. The young man, well, young in relation to my dotage, is personable enough and is on the road much of the time so I’d have the place to myself much of the time. But while the location was quite good, a short walk in one direction to the bus terminal and a similar hike in the other direction would take one to the main park in town, the furnishings were, well let’s say, somewhat shoddy and past their prime. In the States Goodwill and the Salvation Army wouldn’t have taken the stuff. I took a pass.

I got one response to an ad I’d placed, myself, on craigslist looking for another house-sitting position.  It was for a place in a community close to David called Los Anastacios. What I’ve seen of it from the bus windows going up and down the hill it looks like a pretty decent place with modern, gringoesque houses. It is rented by an 84 year old gentleman but the owner of the house was looking for someone to act as property manager, care for the pool (hmmmm), mow the lawn, etc. I passed on this one, too.

One of the reasons I passed on those was I’ve come to realize I enjoy my solitude after having been in a five year live-in relationship with a girl followed by another six years of having a roommate. Actually the roommate situation was better than the relationship since in the entire six years my roommate and I never once got into an argument. That certainly doesn’t come close to the live-in arrangement.

I checked out the bulletin boards at the supermarkets that offered a variety of places for rent. Many were asking more than my budget would allow and the ones that I could afford weren’t in places I’d want to be.

I’d put up notices on various Yahoo Groups dealing with Panama and got several responses. Again, most of these were either too expensive or in locations I didn’t like. One of the responses was from a gringo lady who lives not too far away. I wrote to my friend Joyce who knows a lot of people in this area and she told me the lady was a bat-shit crazy, right-wing teabag sort, so that was out of the question. Since Joyce and I are on similar wave lengths I value her opinion.

Then I got this response: “A friend of mine has a small house in Boqueron for rent.  Semi furnished with air condition and nice swimming hole.  He is asking 200.”

Okay, the price works. Not as good as FREE! But certainly well within budget. Interestingly, when I was first looking for a place to live, just after receiving my Pensionado Visa, I was corresponding with someone who had a place to rent in Boqueron. Unfortunately I couldn’t get down here in time and it was rented to someone else. It also appeared, from Google Earth, to be farther away from David than I wanted to be, as well. But I didn’t know better at the time.

I got back to the person who sent me the message and then started to correspond with the owner of the house who lives in Texas. The house was renovated within the last year and the owner was willing to lease it out for six months rather than a whole year. This is perfect since the owners of this house on the hill have asked me if I would do it all over again next year. Since I really like the place there’s nothing I’d rather do.

So, on Monday I took the bus to David and then another out to Boqueron where I saw this:

I would be renting the downstairs. Admittedly it’s going to be a lot different than living here:

But then, again, I went from living on this for three and a half years,

To living on this for the next five years…

And I can’t honestly say that the larger boat was any more fun than the smaller.

Boqueron is a Panamanian community. I will be the only gringo in the neighborhood which is decidedly middle-class Panamanian. Decent houses and the owner of the house says he loves his neighbors. Transportation is much better to Boqueron than it is to Potrerillos which will be a big plus. But Boqueron is closer to La Concepcion than it is to David, so that’s where I’ll be going to do most of my shopping for the next six months. You might remember that I wasn’t at all impressed with the place when I visited it last month. https://oldsalt1942.wordpress.com/2010/09/08/a-quick-look-at-la-concepcion/ And while the saying is true that you never get a second chance to make a first impression I’ve found, over the years, that my first impression of people and places haven’t been all that astute.I’m hoping that’s what will happen with La Concepcion.

We’ll see how it goes and I’ll be putting my impressions in photos and videos right here.

Oh, yes, one thing I’m looking forward to is the swimming hole in the river that passes by just a few steps from my new back door.

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Another Record Set In September

The figures are in from my neighbor, Mary, who keeps track of such things at:

http://potrerillosarriba.com/pages/archives.html#Sep

Apparently another record rainfall recorded in Potrerillos Arriba of an even SIX FEET of the wet stuff fell on us here in Potrerillos Arriba.

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What If You Get Sick Down There?

I’d known for nearly 20 years that I would spend my retirement years south of the Rio Grande. Where, exactly, I wasn’t sure. After having spent three months on the Rio Dulce on my wonderful Nancy Dawson I thought it would be in Guatemala. I seriously thought about Mexico, too. As followers of this blog know my final destination has been Panama.

Invariably when telling people of my plans they would ask: “What if you get sick down there?” My response was, half flippantly, “you either get better or you die.”

The reason I say “half flippantly” is because isn’t that really what life is like? When you get sick you either get better or you die. We, in the United States especially, have been brainwashed to believe that medical care in the States is unequaled anywhere in the world. ‘Taint so. Most expensive is NOT a synonym for BEST. And consider this: it has only been in MY lifetime that the world has had anti-biotic drugs that were life savers. Sadly there are now more and more nasty things that are becoming completely resistant to these drugs.

These days coronary bypasses are so common it’s likely that everyone knows someone who has had the procedure if not having had it done themselves. It wasn’t always so, of course. One of my classmate’s sisters, who graduated a couple of years ahead of us, was part of the team that invented the heart-lung machine without which open-heart surgery would be impossible. (BTW-my public high school class consisted of all of 60 students and the girl who pioneered the heart-lung machine and traveled all over the world teaching others how to use it graduated in a class with considerably fewer students.)

I have to admit that I was extremely lucky when I had my heart attack a couple of years ago to be living, literally, within eye sight of one of the best cardiac care facilities in southeast Florida. When I realized what was happening to me I had my roommate drive me the six blocks to the hospital. No sense waiting around for an ambulance. When my two and a half day stay was over I was presented with a bill for nearly $70,000.00!

But what if you don’t live six blocks away from a good hospital? What if you live out in the middle of the farm belt? Even back where I grew up on Cape Cod you’re still a half hour’s drive from the nearest hospital. There’s a good chance you’re not going to make it. So even in the country with the “best” health care in the world, as some would like you to believe, in a lot of cases you either get better or you die.

I certainly don’t profess to be an expert but my impression is that Panamanians have access to some of the best health care south of the Rio Grande. Certainly, I’d bet, head and shoulders over Guatemala, El Salvador or Nicaragua. There are hospitals in Panama City that would stack up favorably with any found in major metropolitan areas in the States. There are 12 hospitals in Panama City, many staffed by doctors that have studied in the United States. Hospital Punta Pacifica, in fact, is managed by world-famous Johns Hopkins of Baltimore, Maryland. Medical tourism here in Panama is a growing segment of the economy.

Outside of the capital things get a little sketchier. I noticed that there were a couple of modern-looking hospitals in Chitré when I was initially roaming the country looking for a place to settle. I know if one chose to settle down in the Bocas del Toro area and had serious health concerns they might be living on the edge. But I’d say it’s not too much different than someone choosing to live in most rural parts of the United States, either.

Here, near David, the country’s third largest city there are several hospitals, two of which, Mae Lewis and Hospital Chiriqui (this is Chiriqui Province) are privately run. Hospital Chiriqui, shown below,

has a program called Medical Services Chiriqui which is sort of an in-house HMO. Here is what it covers:

http://www.mschiriqui.com/coberturas_en.html

This week I signed up for it. On Monday I had to get blood work done. I HATE being stuck with needles. Absolutely DETEST it. However, the girl at the lab was a true artist with the needle and I can honestly say I didn’t even feel the needle going in. All my test results show me to be in pretty good shape. Yesterday with the test results in hand I met with Dr. Julio Osorio who will be my primary physician. Nice guy. Speaks good English and gave me a thorough exam. The only thing wrong is my cholesterol is just a hair over the limit, but I’m not upset by that. After all, we’re all going to die of something eventually and if eating twigs and bark is what it takes to extend one’s life, what’s the point?

The lab tests were a FRACTION of what they would have cost in the States. Of course I had to pay full price out-of-pocket for them but with my “Jubilado” discount I got ten bucks whacked off the top, never the less. If I do it again next year and being in the program the tests will cost me less than $20.00. In general what you spend on health care here is unheard of back home. Here’s a sign I saw on a clinic when I was wandering around Chitré:

That’s right! Feeling achy and out of sorts? It’ll set you back three bucks to talk to a doctor in Chitré,

As always, there’s a bit of a hitch in all medical programs and the Chiriqui program won’t cover pre-existing conditions for the first two years. That means my heart condition is up for grabs, but while Medicare doesn’t cover anything once you leave the U.S. I’ll continue to pay for Part B which covers doctors. Should things get really bad and  to the point where I can’t pay for it here I can go back to the States and be a leech on the country’s taxpayers.

The cost of the program, at my age and next year when I’m 70, is $62.00/month. There’s an 8% discount if you pay the whole year at one whack and 6% off if you pay six months at a time.

All things considered, I think the health care system here in Chiriqui Province is a pretty good deal but I do hope I don’t have to use it.

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Arachnophobic’s Nightmare

It was a damp, drizzly, dewy dawn with just a touch of fog that greeted me this morning as I took my steaming cup of Panama’s finest out on the front porch to de-crumpyfy myself. As the caffeine started to kick in what I saw spread out all over the fields to the east and south was an arachnopobic’s nightmare. Hundreds of spider webs glistened as the sun started to break through the gloom. I’m not arachnophobic though I admit I don’t care for the critters much and after a few minutes I was compelled to get out the camera.

Each of those white spots in picture is a spider’s web.

Of course the morning wouldn’t be complete without a couple of photo clichés of dew drops on the webs…

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