Category Archives: Retirement

Homemade Wildlife Cinematography

I have sort of an open door policy here for certain creatures. There are a couple of common house geckos that live with me and in peaceful co-existence with some anole chameleons . I don’t know if that violates the “no pets” policy of my lease but they’re harmless, cute, funny, don’t crawl over me in the dark and they eat insects so they’re welcome.

There is also a small, brown bird about the size of those colorful finches you see for sale in pet stores. In the mornings I usually have the front and back doors of the house open allowing for wonderful cross ventilation. I’ve seen this little wren, for lack of a better or more accurate ornithological classification, come into the kitchen from time to time either out of curiosity or looking for something to eat. Once or twice I actually saw the bird grab an insect and fly back out the door.

Recently, though, I’ve heard squawking noises out back and discovered that, hidden away in one of the metal beams that supports the second story back porch, is a tiny nest of which the little wren is the major-domo. From first light until dark the little bird works tirelessly collecting bugs and bringing them to her brood. I’m not sure whether she’s a single mom or if pop has stuck around to help but not more than a minute passes between one feeding and the next. If it’s just mom then she’s a real work horse. If pop’s around they’re a good team.

In the last couple of days the squawks have become louder and more persistent. I sat out on the steps leading to the second floor and finally caught the little wren with a large bug in her mouth and found where the nest is. Today I was able to capture several short videos of this feeding frenzy. And at the last minute after each feeding one of the trio of chicks turns around, presents it’s hind quarters to mom or dad and defecates and the fecal matter is taken off somewhere. Disgusting, to be sure, but can you imagine how befouled the nest would be if this wasn’t done?

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Filed under Boqueron Panama, Living Abroad, Living in Panama, Retirement, Retirement Abroad

Dry Season In Panama

Well, January is just about over and we’re definitely in the middle of the dry season. So far this month we probably haven’t even had an inch of rain. One afternoon it rained very gently for about an hour and that’s it.

You may remember this video I shot a couple of months ago when we were getting a lot of rain every day…

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Well, here’s the same stretch of river this morning…

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Slogan Needs Work

The contents of my freezer looked pretty skimpy this morning when I opened it to take something out to thaw for dinner tonight. Grocery shopping here in Panama is similar to, but not the same as, it is in the States.

I do my major grocery shopping in David since there are only a couple of small “Chinos” here in Boquerón. “Chinos” are convenience stores which, throughout Panama are mostly owned by Chinese. In David there are four supermarkets: El Rey, Romero (which is owned by El Rey), Super 99 (owned by Panama’s president Ricardo Martinelli) and Super Barú. There is also a PriceSmart which is Panama’s answer to Costco. There are a couple of other chain supermarkets in Panama but the ones I’ve mentioned are the ones that are here.

You can’t do all your shopping at any one supermarket. El Rey, which is the biggest here, could stand shoulder to shoulder with almost any supermarket in the United States. In fact, you can buy a lot of the same brand names here in Panama as you can in the States though you’ll pay a little more for brand names you recognize. But sometimes the extra money is well spent. For example, peanut butter. I’m sorry, but nobody anywhere else in the world makes better tasting (to American palates, anyway) peanut butter than Jiff, Skippy and Peter Pan. Nor does anyone make better tomato paste than Contadena or Hunt’s. For the most part I buy more locally made products and do fine with them but some things just can’t be substituted.

Another thing one soon learns about shopping in Panama is this…if you see something you like on the shelves BUY IT NOW! There’s a very real chance it won’t be there when you might want it later on. If there are three of whatever you like, take TWO. I always leave one for someone else.

A lot of Panamanian businesses have a very tenuous grasp of the concept of marketing. Perhaps you’ve bought something several times in a store and now, for some strange reason you can’t find it any more. You might find a manager and ask why you can’t find your favorite item any more. They will often tell you with a straight face, and mean it, “Oh, we don’t carry that any more because it was too hard to keep on the shelves.” Well, GEE ZUS!!! That’s the whole idea of retail marketing. Find an item that people want and then sell the shit out of it. Why is that concept so hard to grasp?

As I said, you can’t get everything you want at any one single supermarket. I get most of my non-perishable items, canned goods, etc., at El Rey. But if I want to get Kikkoman soy sauce I have to go down the block and across the street to Super Barú. They stock it, El Rey doesn’t though you can get Kikkoman Teriyaki Baste and Marinade at Rey. Barú is about half the size of El Rey and there are a few other things they stock that you can’t get at El Rey. After a few months you get to know which store you have to go to to get certain things.

Each of the supermarkets has a produce section, El Rey’s is the largest and most attractive, but if you want really fresh fruits and veggies at prices that aren’t extortionate, you do that kind of shopping at small, roadside stands that specialize in produce.

Anyway, I needed to pack in a supply of meat. That’s right, MEAT. Fruits and vegetables are fine as far as they go but I also like a slab of bleeding dead cow meat on my plate now and then. The different markets have differing qualities of dead cow, pig and poultry. The ground beef at El Rey, though, listed as low-fat, is just that. There’s almost no fat at all and it doesn’t make for the tastiest hamburgers. Everywhere in Panama beef is really TOUGH. It’s all grass-fed cattle with no feed-lot grain feeding to fatten them up and it’s the fat in the meat that makes it tender.

I’ve found that PriceSmart has about the best ground beef in the area and they have very good cuts of pork and poultry at very competitive prices though not necessarily lower than at the supermarkets. So that’s where I went today. PriceSmart is on the Inter-American highway a couple of miles outside of David and a couple of hundred yards from the Chiriqui Mall. There’s a road connecting the two about a hundred yards in from the highway. The bus stops at the mall but not at PriceSmart so you have to get off at the mall and walk over to PriceSmart.

At the corner of the road that connects the two complexes there is a billboard promoting the Super Barú market at the mall. It’s a small store compared to the one in David. Maybe a third its size and really small compared to El Rey, Romero or Super 99. I couldn’t believe the slogan on the sign for the Chiriqui Mall Super Barú. It read…

“Esta Mejor Que Nunca!” For those of you who don’t understand Spanish, it means, “It’s Better Than Nothing!”

Maybe I’m wrong, but I think someone needs to rethink that slogan. It sure doesn’t do much to inspire confidence.

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Feliz Hanukwanzmas One And All

Well, it’s that time of year again, and I’m not talking about the Republican Presidential Primary Debates. I’m talking about Hanukwanzmas. That time when people of good will make fun of each other’s traditions. For example Sarah (The Queen of the I-Quitarod) Palin AND Faux Gnus have been criticizing President Obama’s family Christmas card this year.

Palin told Fox News that she found it “odd” that the card emphasizes the dog instead of traditions like “family, faith and freedom.” She also said that Americans are able to appreciate “American foundational values illustrated and displayed on Christmas cards and on a Christmas tree.”

Of course the fact that NO president in the past century has used the word “Christmas” matters not one whit to the true-believer Tali-Christian. Palin sees the season like this:

I hope John McCain realizes that there is a new and special layer of hell set up just for him for unleashing this woman on an unsuspecting American populace. (It’s one level higher than where Five Deferment Dick Cheny is going to spend eternity being water-boarded even after realizing that it IS torture.) Anyway, when is this woman’s fifteen minutes going to be up?

I actually like the Hanukwanzmas season except for one thing. I loathe and despise the piped-in Muzak Hanukwanzmas songs that it is impossible to escape from every time you enter a store or public building like an airport terminal. When I’m in charge of everything things are going to change drastically. Piped-in Hanukwanzmas music will only be allowed to be played from 6 p.m. until midnight Hanukwanzmas Eve. Anyone violating this rule will be eviscerated and their innards will be used to decorate the Hanukwanzmas tree in Rockefeller Center like tinsel garlands.Yesterday, Tuesday, December 20th, I went into the El Rey supermarket in David to pay my light bill and was aurally assaulted by “Rudolph The Red Nose Reindeer,” in ENGLISH no less. Can you imagine the uproar that would be heard around the redneck states back in the Great White North if they played Christmas Songs in Spanish? Thankfully I haven’t heard “Grandma Got Run Over By A Reindeer” or any of the Alvin and the Chipmunk songs down here.

No, I’m NOT  a Grinch. I think Hanukwanzmas is the greatest thing for kids EVER. In fact, when I’m in charge of everything it will be against the law to tell anyone under 21 the truth about Santa Clause, Papa Noel, Father Christmas. At 21 a person can legally purchase alcohol to soothe the horrible loss of innocence the news will bring. Younger than 21 is just too cruel to contemplate.

When I got on the bus to return home yesterday an old man got on board with a small, pink, two-wheel bicycle for his grand daughter. I HOPE it was his grand daughter because if it was for his grandson there are going to be some real serious identity issues coming to the fore later in life. I looked at the bike with the usual jaundiced Gringo eye and saw what it was. A poorly-made piece of Chinese crap that will be lucky to make it through the first week before the plastic training wheels disintegrate. But that was my initial reaction. And then I realized the truth about what that bike really meant to him and what it will to the loved one he gives it to. In a country where the national minimum wage is a little less than $400 that bike took a huge chunk out of that man’s pocket. One could tell he didn’t have much to begin with just by looking at his clothes. But that little girl is going to feel like a princess when she unwraps it Christmas morning. Her FIRST bike and her “abuelo” gave it to her. He will be the brightest star in her firmament forever. It’s a crying shame that EVERY kid can’t feel like that this Sunday.

While I DO hate the piped-in Muzak version of Hanukwanzmas songs I’m NOT opposed to the following. It was turning dark when this group of kids from a local Methodist church came in to my yard. I know the vids are dark but when the sun sets here this close to the equator there’s no real twilight. It’s light, the sun sets and then it’s DARK! I used the night setting on the camera and a little clip-on light. As the kids come into the yard you will hear someone say, “Parada!” That’s the Spanish word for “Stop.” My hand appears when I waved back at the little girl with the Santa hat on the right.

Here’s wishing everyone a very Merry Hanukwanzmas and a fantastic new year.

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Christmas Present to Myself

A couple of days ago my computer started acting weird again. First I got a message that my hard drive was maxed out. Couldn’t load anything more onto it which seemed strange since all my big items like videos, photos, that sort of thing are on a separate hard drive. I went to the control panel and deleted a bunch of stuff that I never or rarely used and gained just under 6 gigs of free space. Then a couple of days later when I’d put the cursor over something it would strobe like crazy and when I’d go to turn the computer off the little sign thingy would come up and disappear before I could click “turn off” so I’d end up hitting the on/off button until I could crash the thing and get it to shut off.

Yesterday I went down to the local PriceSmart (sort of a Costco big box store). They had a Sony Vaio there with a 500 gig hard drive and a lot more RAM than the old computer had and it had an English keyboard which meant the operating system would be in English. Panama, of course, is a Spanish-speaking country and the keyboards and operating system are Spanish-oriented. It’s easy to spot a Spanish keyboard. Just to the right of the “L” key on our English QWERTY keyboards, where the colon and semi-colon key is found, the Spanish keyboard has an “ñ” and the colon key is somewhere else though I never bother to look for it. The upper row of keys is our beloved QWERTY but there are some other subtle differences. I found those out when I used Spanish keyboards at some of the cyber cafes when I was first visiting Panama. Using them is a bit different from what we’re used to. For example, when you try and log into your email account as in “JustMe@yahoo.com” there is a convoluted, three-key sequence that requires you to hold your tongue in a certain way or the @ sign won’t appear. Then you have to find some kid sitting nearby working on their Facebook page to show you how to do it.

Well, this wonderful unit was available for $829 plus 7% sales tax. Would have set me back $887.03. Hmmm. Let me think about this for a little bit. But one rule of thumb for buying anything here in Panama is if you see it, buy it immediately because it probably won’t be around the next time you visit the store. Never the less, I decided to wait.

Back at home I was still having problems with the old computer. It is, after all, about six years old. The CD drive will still READ a disc but it’s been nearly two years since it would burn one. However I was thinking about that $887.03. The .03 was what was bothering me. So, in desperation I bit the bullet, made sure all the important stuff was on the external hard drive and I killed the old machine and took it back to the factory settings. It wasn’t the first time I did that on that machine. I had to do it six or seven months ago, too.

About thirty minutes after reading the message that said “Are you really sure you want to do this you ignorant butt-wipe, YOU?” the computer was back to the factory settings except for one thing…there was still, for some reason, only a little less than 6 gigs of free space on the hard drive. Of course, going back to the original settings wiped out all the bookmarks I had on the web sites I visit. That wasn’t an outrageously horrible problem since I’d been meaning to go through and delete probably 85 to 90 percent of them, anyway. You know how it is, you visit a site, enjoy it, bookmark it and never go back there after a week of so has gone by.

Then as I started the laborious process of visiting all the web sites I go to on a daily basis to bookmark them all over again I though, “this is stupid. Why not go get that Vaio at PriceSmart and put these into a NEW computer? Besides, it’s Christmas time. Why not give yourself a present?”

I needed to go to the bank, anyway, so I got up early this morning and went into David and to the HSBC branch at the Plaza Terronal. There are FOUR different stores there that sell computers so I thought I’d go check them out and see if they had any English-centric models before slogging back to PriceSmart which is actually on the bus route back to Boquerón. After visiting the bank for my monthly withdrawal I dropped into a place called Panafoto. They sell just about everything that has a cord attached to it from toasters to washing machines, stoves and refrigerators and, of course, computers. I stopped to look at the Vaios to see what they were priced at in comparison to the one I’d seen yesterday. They were all a little under the PriceSmart model but they were all Spanish-keyboard models. A sales person asked me if I needed any help and I said I was wondering if they had any laptops with English keyboards. (Keyboard in Spanish is “el teclado” which is easy enough to remember if you link it to the word “tickle” and doesn’t a piano player “tickle the ivories?”

“Yes,” he said, an HP.” Actually he said, “Si, una HP (achie pay) because he only spoke Spanish. He took me to the HP display and there was a Pavilion g6-1b70us notebook. Like the Vaio it has a 500 gig hard drive (five times the capacity of my old unit) and 8 gig of memory. A 15.6” screen and all for only $639.95, which, after sales tax, is $202.28 less than the Vaio. That’s  one month’s rent and a month’s worth of electricity. One tends to think along those lines when living on a fixed income.

Naturally, when I got back home, I checked out what I could buy the same unit for in the States. Buy.com could get it to me for $578.99 which is $60.96 less but I have no idea how much shipping it would have cost so it probably would have cost more than what I paid for it here in Panama. At B&H Superstore it would cost $449.95 after a $50 mail-in rebate (and we know how well THOSE work out). That’s $234.80 less, but when you factor in the round trip from David to Panama City, two nights in a hotel plus air fair to and from Miami, I don’t think I’d save a thing.

For any reader who might be inclined to say, “yeah, but the Sony is a better computer than an HP, yada, yada, yada,” let me just say this is the FOURTH HP that I’ve bought; a desktop and two other notebooks. I drove all three of them into the ground after several years of hard use. I’ve had no complaints about the HP computers and I see no big reason to change.

Which brings me to a story I’ve told here, before, but it’s a good story so I’ll tell it again.

Back at the turn of the year 1974/75 I was working, and freezing my tender young ‘nads off, as a head-hunter in Chicago for a firm that specialized in recruiting and placing computer professionals. Heads of IT departments, systems analysts, that sort of thing. That was back when a computer was a behemoth that took up whole FLOORS of office buildings and were serviced by acolytes in lab coats working in conditions where you could store sides of beef. They were kept so cold because of the heat the machines generated.

One day I did a cold call to a guy who worked at Hewlett-Packard.

After getting his name, scholastic and work background covered I asked him, “So, what are you working on now?”

“Oh,” he said, “it’s real exciting. We’re working on a project for making mini-computers.”

“Mini computers? What the hell are those.”

“There going to be small computers that people will have right on their desks,” he enthused with the fervor of a true believer.

“Yeah, sure thing,” I said to myself. “A computer people will have on their desks.”

“Well, good luck with that,” I said as I cut the interview short without uttering the word “asshole” out loud. “Let me know how that works out for ya.”

As I said, this is my FOURTH mini computer.

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Thank God, No Green Been Casserole This Thanksgiving

This is the sixth Thanksgiving I’ve spent outside of the U.S. Two of those were at sea. In ’91 I was coming across the Atlantic on the Jolie Aire and I believe we dined on freshly-caught dolphin. The next one was in ’92. I was on my beloved Nancy Dawson in Isla Mujeres, Mexico. I was nearly broke at the time and I think my Thanksgiving repast that year was refried beans and salsa on tortillas crisped on the two-burner stove.

There were two Thanksgiving dinners while I was over in Antibes. One was at Chez Charlie’s Pub and the other at Le Rouf. They were both good. Turkey, mashed potatoes, etc. Close, but not like in the States, but the effort that the cooks at those two places put in to trying to give the gringo expats a taste of home for the day was appreciated.

Here in Panama it’s just another day. Sort of like how Mardi Gras is in the States except for that thin strip of land between Mobile, Alabama (where the first Mardi Gras was celebrated) and east Texas. In the El Rey supermarket in David where I do most of my grocery shopping frozen Butterball turkeys suddenly appeared in the frozen food section and they were pricey. Around $30/$40 for a 12 pound bird. With quite a large gringo expat community in this area several of the restaurants put on a, sort of, traditional feed bag. Last year I went to the Ciudad de David Hotel and had a fine buffet meal with a couple of beers and an espresso afterwards and with the Pensionado discount it ran about $12 plus tip. Plus I got to watch the New England Patriots football game. Looking at what’s being offered around the area this year it seems the cost of a turkey dinner is anywhere from $15 to $20, topping out at $45 at a very upscale place in Boquete.

Of course the temptation to do go somewhere this year is strong. I’m tempted to try the Cuatro Restaurant which is right on the bus route I take into David. They’re offering grilled turkey breast over sweet potato hash (whatever that is) with cranberry sauce or, braised turkey leg meat over bacon and blue cheese mashed potatoes with cornbread. $15. Dessert will set one back another five bucks.

Okay, so I know you’re all anxious to find out what I did this Thanksgiving. Well, while most Americans would like to believe it’s carved in stone somewhere that we down commercial-sized portions of turkey, mashed potatoes and gravy and that disgusting sting bean casserole today, it’s NOT. Like the name of the day says it’s a day to give thanks for what we have. I’m thankful to be here in Panama and only have to be subjected to the election nonsense that’s pervading the airwaves of America. Gee-ZUS! There you have Ron Paul, 2012’s answer to R0ss Perot. Then there’s the guy named after a slimy amphibian that lives under rocks touting “family values.” Which family, Newt? Your first, second or third? Rick Perry? You know there have to be claw marks on the inside of Molly Ivans’s casket as she tries to get out for just one more go-’round with Governor Good Hair.Plain vanilla Mittens Romney. They guy who crafted the health plan in Massachusetts that “Obama Care” is patterned after and now he has to eat crow and denounce his own plan. One question about the Mormon magic underwear, Mitt…boxers or briefs? And I don’t even want to get started on the three stooges of insanity: Bachmann, Santorum and Cain.

I’m thankful to be living in a beautiful country surrounded by friendly people and being able to enjoy a comfortable lifestyle on what little money I have.

I’m thankful that I woke up to another day.

Though I’ve moved all my stuff into the house in Boquerón there are still things I need so I decided, instead of going to have a semi-traditional Thanksgiving dinner I’d go do some necessary shopping and stop at a place along the way that a lot of people around here have been writing about lately. I stopped off at the Chirqui Mall and had a delicious Philly cheese steak sandwich. Most places here fall flat on their faces trying to cook gringo food. Don’t EVER order a hamburger. They don’t have a clue. But the cheese steak sandwich was spot on delicious. Grilled onions, heavenly melted cheese all done in a very nice Italian-bread roll. Yummy to say the least. Maybe next year I’ll go have turkey and the fixings but this year I was thankful for what I had.

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New Digs and the Internet

The house over here in Boquerón is not hooked up to the internet nor television as is the house on the side of the mountain. I don’t care about not having T.V. Here in a Spanish-speaking country if you want to watch television programs in English you have to subscribe to some kind of satellite service such as Sky or Claró  and I believe Cable & Wireless and Cable Onda will wire your house. In Potrerillos Arriba the owners had a huge Sky dish out in the back yard. Had it been up to me, and naturally it wasn’t, I would have forgone the $32.48 monthly fee. The programming wasn’t all that great and I only watched a few programs on National Geographic, History and Discovery Channel.

An internet connection, on the other hand, is essential for me. The internet is my major source of entertainment. It’s the only way I can download books from Audible.com to my iPod and reading material to my Kindle. The internet keeps me connected to the world. I freak when I can’t get on line to check out my email throughout the day.

Seven months or so ago when I was living over here in Boquerón I had subscribed with C & W for one of their USB modems. I had to sign a contract and then when everything was hooked up it really sucked. It was like going back to the days of a telephone connection. About the only thing you could do with it was check email and you were restricted to only being able to down and up load a maximum of 2 gigabytes. That may seem like quite a bit, but it’s not. You can run through that in just a few days and then, like so many cell phone plans in the States you pay extortionate overtime charges. The monthly charge for this horrid service was forty something bucks a month. My first month I racked up over $100 bucks in overtime without even knowing it, and after that I was very frugal with my on line time.

As my regular readers know, Panama is rapidly becoming a “wired” country. Most small towns have what are called “Info Plazas.”

The sign says, “Closing the Digital Gap.”

Here in Boquerón there are eight, very up to date computers for people to use and there is also Wi-Fi service. When I was here before it cost 35¢ an hour to either use one of the computers or log on to the Wi-Fi. Of course that depended on who was in charge when I was up there to do my web-surfing. If Nancy was at the desk she logged when I logged on and when I checked out and charged me the 35¢ for each hour. But even playing around for three hours only set me back $1.05 which anyone would agree is quite a bargain. If Karina was manning the plaza I could have stayed there all day and she’d only charge me a flat fee of 35¢. I liked Karina a lot. Now, however, under President Martinelli’s push to get the entire country on line there is no charge at all.

Up on the mountain we were connected to the internet by a company called MobileNet. It cost $45.45/month. It is some kind of a wireless system where the house had an antenna. It wasn’t blinding speed by any means but pretty good though playing streaming videos on YouTube were a bit of a hassle. You had to start the vid and then pause it and wait until the little line at the bottom of the picture filled in otherwise it would play for a few seconds and then stop while it buffered some more. Oh, well, life’s not perfect.

I discontinued my service with C & W for the USB after paying for a lot of months when I didn’t use it at all. One of the problems with having a contracted service. But I still wanted to be able to check my emails and read the news when I got up in the mornings without having to wait for the info plaza to open sometime between 9 and 10 and not at all on Sunday though I could still sit out on the bleachers of the covered basketball court outside the town hall and still get a Wi-Fi feed. But it’s still about a half mile from the house.What to do?

Since I’m going to probably be here for the next two years I checked the possibility of getting the house wired. I know C&W hooks up the houses around here and I asked MobileNet a while back when I went to pay the bill if they serviced Boquerón. They said they did in some parts but we didn’t know if the house was in one of those areas. It probably is but I didn’t ask about connection fees or any of that and I didn’t ask C&W but they were on the list of things to do after I got settled in.

I wasn’t going to  go through the whole contract and lousy connection business with C&W again but in Plaza Terronal where I do my grocery shopping there are four cell phone companies, and I noticed in the Claró window they had a USB modem on display so I checked them out. You buy the modem for $40. Well, $39.99 but forty is close enough. You can either sign up with a contract or pre-pay. For $40 a month you can get unlimited service. Last Tuesday I went down and did the deed. I bought the modem and paid the $40. After taxes it came to $84! Sigh, but since it’s pre-paid if it really sucked I’d just be stuck with buying the modem and rely check out getting the house wired.

When I went back up on the mountain I tried it out and, like the old C&W thingy it sucked! Oh, well. The owners of the Potrerillos house drove me here to Boquerón late yesterday morning and naturally one of the first things I did was to plug in the computer and try out the connection.

Let me tell you, they aren’t going to be seeing a lot of me at the Info Plaza. THIS one works great. It’s easily as fast if not a tad faster than the MobileNet connection in Potrerillos Arriba. It still takes a bit of time for a YouTube video to load all the way but it’s probably twice as fast which is nice. I’m going to keep this one and I’ll be saving $5/month over the MobileNet fee.

I’m a happy camper except for the fact that now my camera is acting up.

 

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Twofer Tuesday

When I got the idea to document my last week of sunrises, +1, here on the mountain in Potrerillos Arriba, this is the kind of morning I’d been hoping for. So far the sunrises haven’t been as glorious as they often are here, but this morning didn’t disappoint me. It was so good, in fact that I have to give you two shots instead of just one.

It started off like this:

And ended up like this:

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The Survivors

Just a few weeks “Columbus Day” was celebrated in the United States by almost everyone except the Native Americans. The coming of the white man nearly destroyed the native population. The Europeans brought dreadful diseases with them that wiped out entire populations of the people who were already living here. A simple case of the sniffles would rampage through villages leaving a wake of destruction which was to the indigenous people what the Black Death was to the Europeans.

It occurred to me recently riding on the bus with half a dozen Ngäbe Indians that these were the descendants of the strong. The survivors.

Sunday I went with some gringo and Panamanian friends up to Boquete for a special program being put on by the Lions Club. I caught these photos of some of the survivors.

Since it’s the rainy season here we weren’t disappointed and I caught this snap of a young girl who was hiding out from the showers under a tree.

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Trip to Boqueron

Yesterday I took a trip out to Boquerón. I wanted to see what was going on with the collapsed bridge  to see what damage had been done to the house I’ll be renting and the lot behind the house.

I was mistaken about the bridge location. It’s further to the west on the Interamerican Hwy. Between David and  Boquerón there’s a similar set of bridges a short ways before where you have to turn off to go up to the pueblo. The price of the ride from the terminal in David has gone up from 50¢ to 60¢ since the last time I went there, but it’s still an outrageous bargain compared to riding on public transportation anywhere in the States.

The damage done to the lot behind the house was much greater than I’d expected. There used to be a chain link fence around the property and the lot was full of grass and weeds. A footpath ran down the side of the lot and around behind it. It was used daily by Indians who live on the other side of the river down in that direction. They’d wade across the river and then walk up to the main road to catch the buses. It was a much shorter route for them to get to transportation that way.

As a point of reference take a look at this video I shot last year. At about the 33 second mark you are looking back up the footpath back towards the house. You can see the chain link fence that marked the lot and you can see some trees growing at the side of the river.

Here’s what it looks like from roughly the same spot today.

This is looking in the other direction, down towards the back of the lot.

Here are some of those trees.

Take a close look at this picture. You can see where the water level was this morning and it’s usually like this. Now, note how high the bank is above the water level. During the storm the water must have come up at LEAST 12 feet or more.

While the torrent didn’t wash anything away on our lot, water apparently did get inside the house. It has been described to me as being quite a “mess inside.” I haven’t got a clue to that means. The gate was locked so I couldn’t even get on the lot to try and peer inside. I just got the phone number of the neighbor girl who is looking out for things and I’ll try and get in touch with her over the weekend. I’m sure there’s a lot of mud inside though I have no idea how high the water might have risen. I didn’t see any waterline left on the side of the house. I’m sure there’s a lot of mud in there. The river, which is usually clear enough to see the rocks on the bottom was the color of coffee this morning five days after the storm. I was also told that, as of a couple of days ago, there was no water service in the neighborhood. That happens all over the place because the sediment clogs up the filtration systems at the water plants and they usually don’t have spares on hand. Also, the water infrastructure is definitely “third world,” and mainly consists of PVC piping and most of it just runs along top of the ground.

Well, it’s all part of the adventure of living in a developing country, though they didn’t seem to fair much better in Vermont from that last hurricane than we did in this tempest.

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